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[Vulpine]

Hi All
Had my Omega now 5 years and it has always had this knocking sound from the clutch. Only does it at idle. Gets louder with clutch pedal down. Any ideas what it could be? Doesn't seem to get worse as the years pass or affect the driving of the car.
I have some ideas what it might be but will let you suggest first. 
thanks
Jon

[Marks DTM Calib]

Dual Mass Flywheel at a guess

[Omegatoy]

mdtm is correct!! same reason i had to change mine!!!

[Vulpine]

ah OK. I feared that answer.
Is it expensive/difficult to replace?

[Welung666]

Buypartsbuy have about the best price I've found for a DMF, easy enough job if you're confident with a set of spanners. I'd recommend fitting a new clutch kit at the same time though

[Vulpine]

OK clutch now slipping so I need to replacve it and the DMF. Any more leads or part numbers?
Any pics or guides? Are the bell housing bolts ok to get to?
please help....
Jon

[Welung666]

Fairly easy on the tractors, shame your not closer as I've got clutch changes down to a fine art now!

[Vulpine]

lol i was driving back from Wales yesterday, could of popped in!

[Vulpine]

ok looking at http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/clutch-parts-buy.php on part number 624165209 it talks about: If Std bearing fitted use 624 1652 00. Anyone know what this means? Would i have standard bearing (release bearing i presume)?
624165233 is a "pro" kit. What's the difference?
thanks

[Welung666]

You won't have the standard bearing, the release bearing is part of the slave cylinder and will set you back £100 on it's own. When my clutch went I assumed it was the DMF until I took the old pressure plate off and it had seperated into 2 pieces. DMF was fine but fitted the new one as I'd got it anyway. If it is your DMF then I've got my old one here.

[Vulpine]

ah sound like i need to order a clutch kit from someone and then see what i find when i take her all apart.

[Vulpine]

so would the process go something like this?
1) jack up v high and support car
2) remove engine shield
3) disconnect prop
4) disconnect gear linkage (how?)
5) remove any wiring, hydraulics etc
6) support gearbox
7) undo bell housing bolts
remove gearbox mount
9) drop gearbox
10) remove clutch housing and plate
11) remove flywheel

missed any thing? is any step a real git requiring special tools or magical powers?

[Welung666]

so would the process go something like this?
1) jack up v high and support car
2) remove engine shield
3) disconnect prop
4) disconnect gear linkage (how?)
5) remove any wiring, hydraulics etc
6) support gearbox
7) undo bell housing bolts
remove gearbox mount
9) drop gearbox
10) remove clutch housing and plate
11) remove flywheel

missed any thing? is any step a real git requiring special tools or magical powers?

1) I cheat and use a kerb... reverse 3 or 4 foot accross a pavement then drive forwards up a set of ramps. Gets the car high enough and fairly level (ideal for autobox fluid checks too )

4) Pop the square rubber boot off the bottom of the stick and you'll see a round metal pin with a spring clip each end. Just take off 1 clip and slide the pin out. EDIT TO ADD: take the 2 horizontal 10mm bolts out of the end of the selector while you're there, they are easily missed.

5) Reverse switch plug, lambda wires are just clipped on so pop the metal clip off. Hydraulics disconnect from the clutch master cylinder on the bulkhead, small bladed screwdriver to pull the small metal retaining clip out but careful you don't lose it! Also a hose clip on the bulkhead holding the pipe firm.

6.5) Remove starter motor, so battery off before you start and leave it hanging on the wires.

The rest is pretty much right

[tidla]

so would the process go something like this?
1) jack up v high and support car
2) remove engine shield
3) disconnect prop
4) disconnect gear linkage (how?)
5) remove any wiring, hydraulics etc
6) support gearbox
7) undo bell housing bolts
remove gearbox mount
9) drop gearbox
10) remove clutch housing and plate
11) remove flywheel

missed any thing? is any step a real git requiring special tools or magical powers?

1) I cheat and use a kerb... reverse 3 or 4 foot accross a pavement then drive forwards up a set of ramps. Gets the car high enough and fairly level (ideal for autobox fluid checks too )

4) Pop the square rubber boot off the bottom of the stick and you'll see a round metal pin with a spring clip each end. Just take off 1 clip and slide the pin out. EDIT TO ADD: take the 2 horizontal 10mm bolts out of the end of the selector while you're there, they are easily missed.

5) Reverse switch plug, lambda wires are just clipped on so pop the metal clip off. Hydraulics disconnect from the clutch master cylinder on the bulkhead, small bladed screwdriver to pull the small metal retaining clip out but careful you don't lose it! Also a hose clip on the bulkhead holding the pipe firm.

6.5) Remove starter motor, so battery off before you start and leave it hanging on the wires.

The rest is pretty much right

as there is a fair amount of jiggling around, if you have the kit put the vehicle on two sets of opposing ramps so its level and very secure.

£30 gearbox cradle is safe investment.

[Vulpine]

nice one, sounds ok
i'll try to write a point by point with pics when i do it all.
what does a gearbox cradle look like?