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[mrjimbo]

Is the F/L Omega(04/2001) EOBD/OBD11 compliant and can any fault codes be read by any code reader/scanner other than Tech2 ?

[Jimbob]

yes & yes

[mrjimbo]

Cheers Jimbob 

I wasn't 100% sure as the socket in the fusebox is slightly different to normal OBD socket although the normal OBD plug will fit it if that makes sense  :-?

[TheBoy]

yes & yes

I disagree.

The only ones that are ODBII/EOBD are the 2.2, 2.6 and 3.2

The 2.5 and 3.0 are most definately NOT OBDII

[mrjimbo]

yes & yes

I disagree.

The only ones that are ODBII/EOBD are the 2.2, 2.6 and 3.2

The 2.5 and 3.0 are most definately NOT OBDII

So that means Tech2 only then ?

[Jimbob]

Sorry, I read you had an 04 car, not 04,2001 sorry

I didnt take notice of your profile as thought you may have been changing etc.

[Andy B]

yes & yes

I disagree.

The only ones that are ODBII/EOBD are the 2.2, 2.6 and 3.2

The 2.5 and 3.0 are most definately NOT OBDII

So that means Tech2 only then ?

Depends which codes. Engine only codes can be 'read' with a paper clip. 
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1189022687

[Entwood]

yes & yes

I disagree.

The only ones that are ODBII/EOBD are the 2.2, 2.6 and 3.2

The 2.5 and 3.0 are most definately NOT OBDII

So that means Tech2 only then ?

Not really ... but OBD1 code readers/resetters are not that common ... or cheap .. stick OBD1 into ebay and you'll see what I mean .. yet OBDII or OBD2 gets loads of cheap stuff ... how much of which is any good being another debateable subject !!

You can use a paperclip to READ the engine codes .. but not to reset them ..



EDIT .. beaten by Andy ... again ..

[mrjimbo]

I'll explain in a bit more detail.

For some time now i've not been happy with the fuel consumption and i've looked at allsorts of things to try and improve it with not much success. 10 days ago i had to take it for MoT and as expected it really struggled to pass the emissions test to the point of almost failing, the tester took 45mins doing the emissions alone and was going to fail it but eventually submitted the readings under a differant test procedure to get a pass.
I had 2 advisories, headlamp aim too low and o/s rear shock leaking slightly. When i left the test centre i went straight to the dealers (Bellingers in Grove) and ordered a pair of s/l rear shocks. Last Saturday i changed the rear shocks and while i had the car right up in the air i had a good look underneath, mainly to see if i could do anything with the baffles in the rear box as they rattled when the car was started from cold. I got underneath and got my neighbour to start her up whilst i had a feel to see where the rattle was coming from exactly, the exhaust was rattling but it wasn't the baffles but the 2 pipes were touching on one of the bends just before the diff/fuel tank section. I wedged a prybar in where they were touching and the rattle stopped but when i took the prybar out the rattle returned. I cured it by disconnecting the exhaust where it connects to the cat pipe on the drivers side and pulled it down and outwards to bend the pipes away from each other, result, no more rattling exhaust.

The car now seems to feel differant, more zip. My theory is that the rattle from the exhaust was resonating back along the pipe to the manifold/engine and triggering the knock sensors and therefor retarding the ignition and causing the fuel consumption woes. Now the fitter at work has a code reader/scanner that he's lent me to check for any stored codes but it doesn't do live data. He's going to be upgrading the one he has now and has offered it to me but as it doesn't do live data so it's not much use to me for what i intended. If the car has the capability for  EOBD/OBD11 then i was looking at buying one of these   

 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Autel-EU702-FR704-Scanner-Fault-Code-Reader-ABS-SRS-/300532955158?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item45f928f816

if it will do what i want. I know it's frowned upon to discuss this type of equipment on here thats why i haven't gone into the reasons for my original question/post in more depth before now as i didn't want to overstep the mark so to speak 

[TheBoy]

yes & yes

I disagree.

The only ones that are ODBII/EOBD are the 2.2, 2.6 and 3.2

The 2.5 and 3.0 are most definately NOT OBDII

So that means Tech2 only then ?

Not really ... but OBD1 code readers/resetters are not that common ... or cheap .. stick OBD1 into ebay and you'll see what I mean .. yet OBDII or OBD2 gets loads of cheap stuff ... how much of which is any good being another debateable subject !!

You can use a paperclip to READ the engine codes .. but not to reset them ..



EDIT .. beaten by Andy ... again ..

There isn't an OBDI standard outside of US. You could argue that OBDII is a bit wishy washy

You need a Vauxhall specific reader, no generic reader beyond expensive 'all marques' type readers from likes of snap-off

[TheBoy]

I'll explain in a bit more detail.

For some time now i've not been happy with the fuel consumption and i've looked at allsorts of things to try and improve it with not much success. 10 days ago i had to take it for MoT and as expected it really struggled to pass the emissions test to the point of almost failing, the tester took 45mins doing the emissions alone and was going to fail it but eventually submitted the readings under a differant test procedure to get a pass.
I had 2 advisories, headlamp aim too low and o/s rear shock leaking slightly. When i left the test centre i went straight to the dealers (Bellingers in Grove) and ordered a pair of s/l rear shocks. Last Saturday i changed the rear shocks and while i had the car right up in the air i had a good look underneath, mainly to see if i could do anything with the baffles in the rear box as they rattled when the car was started from cold. I got underneath and got my neighbour to start her up whilst i had a feel to see where the rattle was coming from exactly, the exhaust was rattling but it wasn't the baffles but the 2 pipes were touching on one of the bends just before the diff/fuel tank section. I wedged a prybar in where they were touching and the rattle stopped but when i took the prybar out the rattle returned. I cured it by disconnecting the exhaust where it connects to the cat pipe on the drivers side and pulled it down and outwards to bend the pipes away from each other, result, no more rattling exhaust.

The car now seems to feel differant, more zip. My theory is that the rattle from the exhaust was resonating back along the pipe to the manifold/engine and triggering the knock sensors and therefor retarding the ignition and causing the fuel consumption woes. Now the fitter at work has a code reader/scanner that he's lent me to check for any stored codes but it doesn't do live data. He's going to be upgrading the one he has now and has offered it to me but as it doesn't do live data so it's not much use to me for what i intended. If the car has the capability for  EOBD/OBD11 then i was looking at buying one of these   

 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Autel-EU702-FR704-Scanner-Fault-Code-Reader-ABS-SRS-/300532955158?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item45f928f816

if it will do what i want. I know it's frowned upon to discuss this type of equipment on here thats why i haven't gone into the reasons for my original question/post in more depth before now as i didn't want to overstep the mark so to speak 

3.0l is NOT OBDII. The only OBDII Omega engines are 2.2/2.6/3.2