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[mrgreen]

i believe if the plugs not sparking the ecu will shut off the fuel to that cylinder  (well it does on my wifes polo!)

[Jimbob]

well "My Naff Code Reader" is laptop based diagnostics that talks to the car (but cant discuss obtaining as its a rip off of some £700 software) which can be handy, gives logs such as jamesV6CDX posted in here.  Also reads and deletes fault codes, which can be handy with intermittant, or problems you think youve fixed as you know the codes has gone, and can then see if it returns.

MAF - bit of a long shot given the symptoms, but that can be problematic on 3.2 and 2.6 cars, look lie : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mass-Air-Flow-Meter-OPEL-Omega-3-2-00-03-Y32SE-MAF-/120668177128?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c186242e8
and sit just down from the airbox, unplugging them causes the car to run on a default map, so if they are sending duff info, can rule them out as a possibilty.


Apart from that, hows the car serviced?  filters newish?   or end of life?  ie Air and Fuel.  Have you run any injector / fuel system cleaners through? 

[feeutfo]

Opti, you need to dis count the obviously damaged "looking" but not necessarily faulty coil pac(s) is there anyone near you that will help you swap in some known good ones? Another oofer perhaps. Or ask the breakers on here?

And it has to be said, somebody with your post count should know better to post multiple threads on one topic/issue. Htf are we meant go diagnose with half the info missing?

Anyway, plugs and cp are new on 135? so now your going to have to bite the bullet and tackle 246 bank. For all you know(from memory) no 6 is falling apart in the bore and destroying the engine. Get in there and pull 6 plug out (if not done already ) and hopefully swap in a known good cp at the same time. Dirty hands time!

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

well "My Naff Code Reader" is laptop based diagnostics that talks to the car (but cant discuss obtaining as its a rip off of some £700 software) which can be handy, gives logs such as jamesV6CDX posted in here.  Also reads and deletes fault codes, which can be handy with intermittant, or problems you think youve fixed as you know the codes has gone, and can then see if it returns.

MAF - bit of a long shot given the symptoms, but that can be problematic on 3.2 and 2.6 cars, look lie : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mass-Air-Flow-Meter-OPEL-Omega-3-2-00-03-Y32SE-MAF-/120668177128?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c186242e8
and sit just down from the airbox, unplugging them causes the car to run on a default map, so if they are sending duff info, can rule them out as a possibilty.


Apart from that, hows the car serviced?  filters newish?   or end of life?  ie Air and Fuel.  Have you run any injector / fuel system cleaners through? 

Oil and filter changed 7,000 miles ago.
Air filter. I have checked this and it seems pretty clean and does not look like it needs changing.
Fuel filter?.....Not sure where this is.

By  fuel system cleaners do you mean the gunk you add to the petrol?......if yes ...then no.

I have located and unplugged the MAF. The cars runs exactly the same. The pedal trick gives the same codes....0300....0305.....0306. I have  reconnected it.

For Chrisgixer. I have replaced all six plugs Chris. Originally Bosch Super.....replaced with GM 011. As you say Plug 6 was a bas*ard to remove and looked like it had been in there since the dawn of time. I have left off the oil filler neck and the plastic casings holding the wiring for now as it makes lifting the 246 coil pack much easier and quicker to do

[Jimbob]

Ok,
imho, the car is overdue a service, I wouldnt let my oil go that long, but I wouldnt worry till this is sorted.

if the fuel filter has never been changed in your ownership, then it will be overdue, unlikely to affect this issue, but would add to your to do list.

Yes, gunk you add to petrol, like forte advanced formula gas treatment, stp injector cleaner, redex etc.  again, prob wont really help here, but wouldnt hurt either.

you have these 3 codes....you may or may not have fixed 1 or more of them, I suspect you may only have the 306 as an active code, without a code reader, its hard to tell.

sounds like youve proved the maf is not to blame as well.

are you aware of anyone local with a code reader / deleter?
I would really want to be clearing out codes and seeing what is still present, if the 305 is still there (afaik you cant tell with just pedal trick) then its slightly worrying given youve fitted a new coil pack on that side.

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

I've just removed the 135 coil pack (again).......put the plugs in it and then rested it  against the engine. Turned the engine over with the  result of.....three nice big sparks

I then removed the 246 coil pack (again)to check the plugs. Number six was wet . I then fitted another plug and started her up. still running rough and still showing the same codes. The 246 coil pack has most corrosion on cylinder number 6. Coincidence?

Will my old 135 coil pack..( if not Donald Ducked) work on the 246 side?. They look identical to me...

[Mart280]

I've just removed the 135 coil pack (again).......put the plugs in it and then rested it  against the engine. Turned the engine over with the  result of.....three nice big sparks

I then removed the 246 coil pack (again)to check the plugs. Number six was wet . I then fitted another plug and started her up. still running rough and still showing the same codes. The 246 coil pack has most corrosion on cylinder number 6. Coincidence?

Will my old 135 coil pack..( if not Donald Ducked) work on the 246 side?. They look identical to me...

I can answer that, no it wont work different firing order I imagine, I bought a second hand coil pack from SWVauxhall spares on fleabay for about 40 quid delivered, compared to the one it replaced it was in excellent condition.

[V6 CDX-er]

I'm slightly surprised that Plug 5 is bone dry when I take it out. I would expect it to be wet (if it's not sparking).

Car runs roughest  between 500rpm and 1500  rpm (About 4 cylinders?) it smoothes out after  that and will pull to the 6700 red line but without any real vigour.... :-?...Hmmmm
 

I had a simular problem, with simular fault codes. A new coil pac sorted out my woes.

There isn't any loose electrical connectors or vac pipes is there?

What sort of a state is the fuel filter and air filter in?

[V6 CDX-er]

well "My Naff Code Reader" is laptop based diagnostics that talks to the car (but cant discuss obtaining as its a rip off of some £700 software) which can be handy, gives logs such as jamesV6CDX posted in here.  Also reads and deletes fault codes, which can be handy with intermittant, or problems you think youve fixed as you know the codes has gone, and can then see if it returns.

MAF - bit of a long shot given the symptoms, but that can be problematic on 3.2 and 2.6 cars, look lie : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mass-Air-Flow-Meter-OPEL-Omega-3-2-00-03-Y32SE-MAF-/120668177128?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c186242e8
and sit just down from the airbox, unplugging them causes the car to run on a default map, so if they are sending duff info, can rule them out as a possibilty.


Apart from that, hows the car serviced?  filters newish?   or end of life?  ie Air and Fuel.  Have you run any injector / fuel system cleaners through? 

Oil and filter changed 7,000 miles ago.
Air filter. I have checked this and it seems pretty clean and does not look like it needs changing.
Fuel filter?.....Not sure where this is.

By  fuel system cleaners do you mean the gunk you add to the petrol?......if yes ...then no.

I have located and unplugged the MAF. The cars runs exactly the same. The pedal trick gives the same codes....0300....0305.....0306. I have  reconnected it.

For Chrisgixer. I have replaced all six plugs Chris. Originally Bosch Super.....replaced with GM 011. As you say Plug 6 was a bas*ard to remove and looked like it had been in there since the dawn of time. I have left off the oil filler neck and the plastic casings holding the wiring for now as it makes lifting the 246 coil pack much easier and quicker to do

On my facelift 2.6 saloon the fuel filter is located just inboard of the drivers side rear wheel. To replace you will need the new clips from Vauxhall, (about 50p each, maybe less), and a proper set of fuel filter pliers from Machine Mart, which are £16 for a set of three IIRC.

If you can make it up to me, (north derbyshire), then you are welcome to borrow my old dis-pac. I had to buy a new one as I had shagged one of the rubber spark plug boots, but counldnt get a spare boot for love nor money.

[Martin_1962]

I got a new one for £75

Unless codes are cleared they stay

Plugs cause 030x errors as well

[feeutfo]

Shop around for dis, sure I saw vx parts warehouse do em for £65.

They are handed, due to the angle the of the plug well relative to the top body, the boots do not enter the head square on. Other than that I am not sure there's any difference? It "may" be possible to get a 135 PAC to spark in 246 if the seal is removed temporarily I guess, it'll be a fiddle though.

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

Shop around for dis, sure I saw vx parts warehouse do em for £65.

They are handed, due to the angle the of the plug well relative to the top body, the boots do not enter the head square on. Other than that I am not sure there's any difference? It "may" be possible to get a 135 PAC to spark in 246 if the seal is removed temporarily I guess, it'll be a fiddle though.

Spot on Chris. Yes.....they are "handed." I failed to notice that before. I'm now going to see if I can "adapt"my old 135 coil pack (which may or may not work) and try to fit it to the 246 bank.
I presume that it's nothing to do with the firing order of the engine that was mentioned earlier in this thread?......Worth a try...I think...

[Marks DTM Calib]

Firing order wont impact.

Note, you cant test a coil pack without a test plug (I do have one here).

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

Success.....sweet success. I had to remove the rubber seal but I have been able to place my old 135 coil pack on the 246 bank. I needed to remove the seal because I had to "waggle" it around to connect with the plugs .......and then waggle it again in order to locate the  two securing bolts properly.....

The old girl started first time and then settled into a beautifully precise SIX cylinder idle that would put a swiss watch to shame.

She now drives perfectly all the way to the redline at 6700 RPM..... The EML light has finally gone out......although the pedal trick still shows 0300....0305.......and 0306 codes.....Why?

It seems that the 0300 and 0305 codes were old (non-deleted codes)......and the 0306 code was the only active code...(Gold star for Jimbob... ) I should have guessed this as plug 6 was the only one that came out of the engine "wet".......due to the fu*ked 246 coil pack...... :-/

I now need to find a way to stop water getting in as the rubber seal is not there. But Other than that I'm a happy man.

Thanks to Jimbob .....Chrisjixer and many others who helped find a solution to this problem.....

[Jimbob]

glad youve finally got there.

personally find a decent code reader an invaluble part of a toolkit, makes things a lot easier when you know what the ecu is reporting.

So, your going to try and make do with the 2 x 135 coil packs permanently?  can imagine a removable 'seal' would be tricky to make.