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[sport]

Hi i have a rumbiling from the rear when driving strait or turning right.
but when i turn sharp left its quiet
is this my left wheel bearing
just replaced my right bearing thought it was the right but the noise is still there

[2woody]

I would have said it was right hand side.

[aaronjb]

I would have said it was right hand side.

Left, surely? If you turn hard left you unload the left hand tyres & take the weight off the bearing so if it shuts up doing that.... if I'm reading the post rightcorrectly

[kcl]

one comment for changing the bearing. I have done three of them and have on this forum given some "advice" how to do it. A few days ago I had a look on TIS how it is done with the "right" tools I realized I have been doing it the wrong way.

The correct way, and less self-made tools requiring is to push the parts out instead of pulling them out from the hub. You should simply srew out two of the screws that connect the hub to the trailing arm and screw a bar with a hole in the middle (usual bearing pullers "base bar" will do) to these threads, then simply put another threaded bar through the "pusher" and out comes the inside as well as the outer ring. 

[Jimbob]

one comment for changing the bearing. I have done three of them and have on this forum given some "advice" how to do it. A few days ago I had a look on TIS how it is done with the "right" tools I realized I have been doing it the wrong way.

The correct way, and less self-made tools requiring is to push the parts out instead of pulling them out from the hub. You should simply srew out two of the screws that connect the hub to the trailing arm and screw a bar with a hole in the middle (usual bearing pullers "base bar" will do) to these threads, then simply put another threaded bar through the "pusher" and out comes the inside as well as the outer ring. 

mine was done using the real, genuine VX tool......it bent and became fubar!

[kcl]

one comment for changing the bearing. I have done three of them and have on this forum given some "advice" how to do it. A few days ago I had a look on TIS how it is done with the "right" tools I realized I have been doing it the wrong way.

The correct way, and less self-made tools requiring is to push the parts out instead of pulling them out from the hub. You should simply srew out two of the screws that connect the hub to the trailing arm and screw a bar with a hole in the middle (usual bearing pullers "base bar" will do) to these threads, then simply put another threaded bar through the "pusher" and out comes the inside as well as the outer ring. 

mine was done using the real, genuine VX tool......it bent and became fubar!

I remember having read here that yours was really rusted solid...?

[sport]

So it is a bearing and not the diff

[pirate]

mine did the same dude ,got mate to drive and i sat in back when we throw her left the noise went , defo left near side rear,ok peeps,
hope yours comes out easier than mine ended up with whole wishbone out of car, 8-)

[SteveS]

I recently did mine. The symptoms were the same as yours, noisy when going straight noisier on a right turn and quieter on a left. From the drivers seat it was difficult to tell which side the noise was coming from. I even put my MP3 player in record mode and drove with it on each side and surprisingly the recordings sounded exactly the same. I think the whole back area of the car was acting as a sound box. I took advice from the back seat passengers who felt it was noisier from the left side added to the fact that unloading the left wheel in a left turn was quieter.

The recommendation from the experts on this forum was again spot on as it's a pig of a job to do, which is exactly what they said, but if you are forewarned you can prepare your self. Pulling the outer sleeve out in my opinion is the hardest part. I thought dragging it through with a length of M12 studding would do it but I ended up stripping the threads. Once I had got hold of a suitable M16 high tensile bolt (M20 would have been better) I did manage to get it out. Once  I got it moving it wasn't so bad. I did find myself at one point looking at the wishbone to see how difficult it would be to remove, but I persevered.

To put the hub in make sure you have sufficient washers or similar to use as spacers to go over the spline (spline is 32mm OD) and pull hub shaft through. Pushing the hub through is not recommended as there is the risk of pushing the inboard inner sleeve out of the bearing and you don't really want that to happen.

In hindsight I would probably tackle one again. Also when I removed the brake disc/drum although there was still plenty of friction material on the brake shoes the rust had got under it and it came of the backing. No probs I though I'll just pop down the Vx dealer and get some new ones, but they don't stock them. They said they could get me some in 2 days. If they had been doing the job would the car be off the road for the 2 days and I dread to think what the price to fit them would be once they had got it on the ramps and in pieces. Anyway the local motor factor had some so I broke my new rule of only fitting VX parts; they seem to fit OK.

Anyway sport, in summary it's probably the left side and if you just did the right you probably know how to do the job anyway.

[sport]

I recently did mine. The symptoms were the same as yours, noisy when going straight noisier on a right turn and quieter on a left. From the drivers seat it was difficult to tell which side the noise was coming from. I even put my MP3 player in record mode and drove with it on each side and surprisingly the recordings sounded exactly the same. I think the whole back area of the car was acting as a sound box. I took advice from the back seat passengers who felt it was noisier from the left side added to the fact that unloading the left wheel in a left turn was quieter.

The recommendation from the experts on this forum was again spot on as it's a pig of a job to do, which is exactly what they said, but if you are forewarned you can prepare your self. Pulling the outer sleeve out in my opinion is the hardest part. I thought dragging it through with a length of M12 studding would do it but I ended up stripping the threads. Once I had got hold of a suitable M16 high tensile bolt (M20 would have been better) I did manage to get it out. Once  I got it moving it wasn't so bad. I did find myself at one point looking at the wishbone to see how difficult it would be to remove, but I persevered.

To put the hub in make sure you have sufficient washers or similar to use as spacers to go over the spline (spline is 32mm OD) and pull hub shaft through. Pushing the hub through is not recommended as there is the risk of pushing the inboard inner sleeve out of the bearing and you don't really want that to happen.

In hindsight I would probably tackle one again. Also when I removed the brake disc/drum although there was still plenty of friction material on the brake shoes the rust had got under it and it came of the backing. No probs I though I'll just pop down the Vx dealer and get some new ones, but they don't stock them. They said they could get me some in 2 days. If they had been doing the job would the car be off the road for the 2 days and I dread to think what the price to fit them would be once they had got it on the ramps and in pieces. Anyway the local motor factor had some so I broke my new rule of only fitting VX parts; they seem to fit OK.

Anyway sport, in summary it's probably the left side and if you just did the right you probably know how to do the job anyway.

The garage did mine cost me £200 just trying to make sure its the bearing, dont wont to spend another £200 and find out its the diff

[mrgreen]

I would have said it was right hand side.

Left, surely? If you turn hard left you unload the left hand tyres & take the weight off the bearing so if it shuts up doing that.... if I'm reading the post rightcorrectly

i'm with you on that one!

[Andy H]

Before you condemn the wheelbearing have a quick check of the rear brake disc and pads.

My first Omega made a (quiet) rumbling noise when I first got it and it turned out to be due to the inner brake pads rusting into the caliper. The inner face of the brake disc was pitted and caused a rumbling noise when it contacted the rusted in pad.

I took the pads out and filed the rust off. Once the pads were free to move the discs cleaned up and the noise disappeared

[SteveS]

The diff was something someone mentioned as an alternative source of the noise, but I don't think the noise from a noisy diff would change as you cornered left or right and it might change with load i.e. quieter when coasting and noisier under acceleration. I don't have first hand experience of a noisy diff, just a thought.
Andy H, did the noise from the brakes change when you touched the brakes? If it did it could be something sport could check for. The wheel bearing noise is speed dependent, but touching the brakes doesn't make any difference (until the speed drops obviously).

[sport]

Hi yes changed the brakes before i did the bearing looks like i changed the wrong one

[sport]

Changed my left rear bearing all quiet now can turn my radio down , but now i have a rattling from my front wheel when turning left , i think it may be the a loos break sheald :-/