Might be pleased the 3.2 fell through as I am not into electronics so thanks for the heads up.
Yes, I think you'll have an easier time getting the 3.0 to run due to the simpler engine management.
Does anyone have any ideas on the wiring needed to make the 3.0 V6 run? As I will have the whole car I will have access to all parts.
You will need the engine ECU, Immobiliser transponder from the ignition keys and the immobiliser module that sits on the ignition lock barrel. These three items are coded together so you need them as a set.
Obviously, the whole engine loom and all ancillaries on it - engine sensors and actuators, Lambda sensors, main and fuel pump relay.
You might as well ditch the whole secondary air injection system although you'll need to load the output of the ECU that feeds the solenoid to stop the ECU complaining.
I have a feeling there's a wire that codes the ECU for auto/manual transmission that you need to take care of. Air copnditioning feed for the clutch relay passes through the engine ECU. Not sure if it gets upset if this is not present. (please don't tell me you're fitting air con to an MX 5

). On that ECU I don't think there's much else that will cause a problem as long as everything else is wired back up as it was.
Also they are heavier I think. I do fancy a lighter one but not sure I can warrant £250 odd for a lightened one.
I'm not aware of specifics, but I'm sure there will be a combination of off-the-shelf bits that will replace with a solid flywheel without going down the route of a "performance" (read: expensive) aftermarket flywheel.
Kevin