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[griffin]

Morning All!

Sorry I know this has been asked before and I have tried searching for it but I can't find the topic.

I'm sure I've read on here that there is a certain way you should disconnect the battery to avoid setting off the power sounder etc. Am I right and if so can anyone point me in the right direction to how it should be done properly

 

[Jimbob]

Yup, disconect the battery within 15 seconds of turning off the ignition..


So, loosen battery positive clamp, start stop ignition, remove lead.  Job done 

[griffin]

Thanks for that info....

I've done something wrong... TC and ABS light's now wont go out after reconnecting battery?
 

[Kevin Wood]

Are all the fuses OK?

Kevin

[griffin]

Hi Kevin

Thanks I've not checked as yet, will do when I get home. Am I looking at any particular fuse??
 

[Kevin Wood]

Hi Kevin

Thanks I've not checked as yet, will do when I get home. Am I looking at any particular fuse??
 

Just thinking the supply fuse to the ABS module may have popped. Believe it's in the box in the driver's footwell, and marked ABS.

Does the speedo still work?

Kevin

[griffin]

Again I'll check speedo when I get home and update later.

I really appreciate the help you guys give?
 

[Kevin Wood]

No problem at all. Happy to help.

I'm thinking that if the fuse had got weak the inrush of current when the battery was reconnected might have taken it out. Alternatively, the ABS module has power but has raised a fault code for some reason.

In the latter case, the speedo would probably still work, in the former, it won't.

I will have a look this evening, at exactly what fuses power the ABS module. There's certainly a fuse under the dash for the switched supply. I believe one of the fusible links by the battery provides another supply too.

Kevin

[griffin]

Quick update, Speedo is working. I've checked the owners manual which say its fuse no 19 which I've checked and is intact?
 

[Kevin Wood]

OK. If the speedo is working the likelihood is that the ABS has a fault code logged rather than it being a fuse. Has anything else been disturbed? Wiring to ABS ECU or wheel sensors perhaps?

Might be worth putting a Tech 2 on it and checking for ABS ECU fault codes.

Kevin

[griffin]

Ok I'll need to arrange that. Is the car ok to drive in the meantime?
 

[griffin]

Pedal trick not showing any fault codes  don't know if should or not.
 

[Kevin Wood]

Pedal trick not showing any fault codes  don't know if should or not.
 

Pedal trick will only show engine codes. You need a Tech 2 or "My Naff Code Reader" / similar to read the ABS ECU.

.. and it should be Ok to drive. Bear in mind the ABS and traction control won't be working though.

Kevin

[Entwood]

Have you checked the power distribution box ... the little triangular one on top of the battery 5 big fuses in there ... if memory serves 4 x 80 amp 1x 30 amp  and one of them does ABS and TC

I did a post on this having dug out the wiring diagram a week or so back .. but can't trace it ...

As you changed the battery  you might have moved the fuse slightly   or a loose connection on that fuse ??

still looking for the post .. if I can't find it I'll go back to the wiring diagram

found the little bugger   http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1267738606



page 12.27 of Haynes ..

FV1 (80 amp) - is ABS and traction control
FV2 (80 amp) - is Main Engine Relay and glowplug timer
FV3 (30 amp) - is Motronic Control Unit 
FV4 (80 amp) - is to the ignition switch
FV5 (80 amp) - is to fuses 1,6,7,10,20,25,27,29
FV6 (80 amp) - is to fuses 5,12,17,24, 33 (air con)

I believe FV2 is is diesel only  which explains why I have 5 not 6 !!


so FV1 80 amp .. in the triangular box ... check it ..

[griffin]

  Thanks for that advice, I'll check when I get home that is a possability as I did have to remove the box to disconnect the + terminal