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[lozzzzzz]

A little update. 

I started fitting the Gaz dampers last night only to find the spring seats are too big, and the 2.25 springs won't fit over them.  I considered ringing Gaz, but these took 6 weeks to make, so my thinking was, that I can't use the 2.5 inch spring seats so I might as well turn them down on the lathe.  The tops I could nab from the old AVO dampers but the bottoms have a different thread (the gaz dampers have a much more course thread), so this evening I did the lathing and fitted it all. 


I got the front on axle stands so the front of the car was perfectly level and lifted the rear end from the centre of the axle a number of times to watch the wheels leave the ground, this meant by adjusting the rear ride height on each side I could get the back end level. 

This also meant that when the front was put back on the ground any diffences in ride height left to right would be due to the fronts, so I could adjust until the car sat level and at the right height.  This isn't quite corner weighting and makes the assumption that the weight balance is perfect left to right etc etc.... but its a start, it'll all be apart again when I start the calculations to figure out the correct spring rates. 

Oh and I also put sealer around the damper adjustment nob, its easy enough to cut it off and I don't want these corroding like the AVO's did. 

I'll mess about with it again tomorrow, but its ready now, it could be driven to the MOT station tomorrow (or a week saturday as the case may be )

[ozzycat]

let us know how you get on lozz

[markrnorton]

A little update. 

I started fitting the Gaz dampers last night only to find the spring seats are too big, and the 2.25 springs won't fit over them.  I considered ringing Gaz, but these took 6 weeks to make, so my thinking was, that I can't use the 2.5 inch spring seats so I might as well turn them down on the lathe.  The tops I could nab from the old AVO dampers but the bottoms have a different thread (the gaz dampers have a much more course thread), so this evening I did the lathing and fitted it all. 


I got the front on axle stands so the front of the car was perfectly level and lifted the rear end from the centre of the axle a number of times to watch the wheels leave the ground, this meant by adjusting the rear ride height on each side I could get the back end level. 

This also meant that when the front was put back on the ground any diffences in ride height left to right would be due to the fronts, so I could adjust until the car sat level and at the right height.  This isn't quite corner weighting and makes the assumption that the weight balance is perfect left to right etc etc.... but its a start, it'll all be apart again when I start the calculations to figure out the correct spring rates. 

Oh and I also put sealer around the damper adjustment nob, its easy enough to cut it off and I don't want these corroding like the AVO's did. 

I'll mess about with it again tomorrow, but its ready now, it could be driven to the MOT station tomorrow (or a week saturday as the case may be )

they sound like they are 2 1/2" spring seats, in which case, why didnt you just buy some 2 1/12" coils form somebody like demon tweeks ?

[lozzzzzz]

A good point Mark, but I already have 2.25" springs, and I plan to stay with them as there seems to be a much great choice of spring rates than with 2.5".  I'll eventually figure out the unsprung weight front and rear then do some calcs and buy the correct spring rates to get the car to handle properly, and to get the ones closest to the calcs 2.25 seems the best option. 





I appologise if these updates are dragging on little, it feels like the car has been "nearly ready" for ages.  I'ts a shame it didn't quite make it a week or so back, but I have still been doing plenty with it.  Tonight I faffed on with the ride height some more and really got it right where I want it.  The camber looks ok at zero on the passenger side and about 10 mins negative on the drivers side (the book recommends 0-1 degree negative).  This little tool has proved very good and very repeatable:


Then it was time to fine tune the tracking.  Instead of borrowing the dunlop gauges from work again, I decided to bite the bullet and buy the kit pictured below.  I can't speak highly enough of this kit, it was just £70 delivered (delivered really fast in fact). It takes about twice as long as dunlop gauges to set up (but we're still talking about less than a minute till you get the reading), but it seem really repeatable and precise.  I measured the car three times and got:
13 mins toe out
11mins toe out
and 13mins toe out
So plenty repeatable enough, the scale is really precise and it feels well constructed and solid even if it is plastic.  Very Pleased

The car is now set at about  6 mins toe in (book recommends zero, so its close)



More to come

[dbug]

Both bits of kit look good mate - any links as to where you got them?

[lozzzzzz]

Tracking tool was here

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trackace-Laser-Wheel-Alignment-System-Tracking-Gauges-Toe-in-Out-Tool-Tracker-/300814333955?pt=UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item4609ee7803

And the camber tool was here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MARCH-SALE-GUNSON-DIY-Magnetic-Vehicle-Wheel-Alignment-Camber-Gauge-Tool-Kit-/181107478653?pt=UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item2a2ad8d07d

Both Ebay jobs

[dbug]

Thanx 

[tidla]

Or one of these for even more accuracy.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DigiPas-Digital-Inclinometer-for-Accurate-Leveling-NEW-/250707735836?pt=UK_BOI_Industrial_Automation_Control_ET&hash=item3a5f58751c

[lozzzzzz]

How does that work???





IT PASSED

Its fast!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   

It passed the MOT this morning, with no probs at all I nursed it over there having found it very difficult to map while driving.  It was very lean to and from the MOT, so I messed about some more, then it was too rich, but at least I could safely put my foot down.  Its awesome, Its really really dam fast.  We did a cheaky little 0-60 run and it came out at 5.4s, but I'm allowing for some error here, I'll do a more accurate one later.  It reaches 62 in second though, so only needs the one gear change, giving it an illusively quick 0-60. 

I found my ear ringing after about an hour of driving it round, it really is very loud in there too much really, it'll be ace fun on a track day, but it really is crazy loud for a commuter. 

Anyway, that won'y stop me driving it work and showing off

FUN FUN FUN

[ozzycat]

that is great lozzz  now you can start enjoying her you could try some sound proofing ib the floor and doors ect just to take the edge off the noise but still great news well done

[omega3000]

that is great lozzz  now you can start enjoying her you could try some sound proofing ib the floor and doors ect just to take the edge off the noise but still great news well done

Nooooo , best leave the soundproofing out and hear the V6 soundtrack better 

[lozzzzzz]

it only takes about an hour int he car and your ears are ringing like you've been in a  night club, it really is very very loud, there will still be plenty of noise with some sound deadening I think.


Right I've covered a few miles now the list goes a bit like this:

Connect Power steering pump  (that didn't take long )
Sound deadening in the car, on the big flat panels and around the fuel pumps
Maybe a quieter middle box (see how it is after the above)
and I need a new fuel filler gasket. 

Every time I floor it (which seems to happen lots) the fuel pushes up against the fuel filler cap and leaks out I've seen flames from the exhausts so this needs sorting really. 

Let the project continue

More to come

[aaronjb]

Nice work! And a nice link to the tracking gauge there. The bubble camber gauges are meant to be terribly inaccurate though - I have one too for setting up the kit chassis (when I finally get there) and apparently you're better off with a piece of paper with angles on it (essentially a protractor) and a plumb bob

Anyway - very nice

Oh and a friend of mine runs a fully stripped MX5 with no sound proofing - he found the only way he could drive it any distance (basically to & from tracks) was either with a helmet on, full can headphones or earplugs

[omega3000]

it only takes about an hour int he car and your ears are ringing like you've been in a  night club, it really is very very loud, there will still be plenty of noise with some sound deadening I think.


Right I've covered a few miles now the list goes a bit like this:

Connect Power steering pump  (that didn't take long )
Sound deadening in the car, on the big flat panels and around the fuel pumps
Maybe a quieter middle box (see how it is after the above)
and I need a new fuel filler gasket. 

Every time I floor it (which seems to happen lots) the fuel pushes up against the fuel filler cap and leaks out I've seen flames from the exhausts so this needs sorting really. 

Let the project continue

More to come

 

[Kevin Wood]

Every time I floor it (which seems to happen lots) the fuel pushes up against the fuel filler cap and leaks out I've seen flames from the exhausts so this needs sorting really. 

Let the project continue

More to come

 

Ahh. Memories of those days of Weber 45 ownership, when you could illuminate the hedgerows at night with a little blip of the throttle.