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Messages - fergy

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1
Omega General Help / Re: Misfire / flat spot on overrun 2.2 dti
« on: 26 September 2013, 22:28:09 »
Suggest it could be a sticky EGR. Next time it happens check if the EML flashes on for a second . You may not notice, the light unless you are looking for it,  it happens so fast.
Easy to remove and clean. Located under the bulge in the black plastic trim on the rocker box (oops!.. cam cover). Factors can supply a suitable cleaner.

2
Omega General Help / Re: Diesel heater
« on: 22 September 2013, 13:19:44 »
Been a while now with nor replies, so here goes!

 It is a coolant heater made by Erberspatcher. Designed to enable rapid warm up of engine and thus air con in cold weather. Fitted to the Dti only in the Omega range it generally works well until the salty gunge from the road  builds up under the GM made mounting bracket. Then the aluminium heat exchanger rots through from the outside and deposits your engine coolant next to the off side front wheel

The heater has no user controls it is activated by a thermostat/ coolant temperature sensor. As yours has been disconnected I imagine it has suffered like all the rest. With mine I took considerable trouble in trying to find a replacement heat exchanger but to no avail. I was informed by Erberspatcher dealers that spares are only available from GM .

 To test it you would need to check that the the in and out  water hoses are connected and plug in the currently bagged up loom, not forgetting to confirm the diesel supply is intact  If the person who disconnected it did a fair job I would hope that they removed the fuse from under the dash. from memory No 14 of 15. As they did not remove the heater it looks like a minimal disconnect job to me.

 

One other requirement is cold weather, again from memory a figure of below 5 C comes to mind as being specified, but mine kicked in about -2C.  I'm pretty sure that I found out the connector pin out by repeated internet searching, but someone more clever that I should be able to tell you how to fool it into starting up.



3
Omega General Help / Re: Help please 2.2 Dti Aux heater
« on: 12 December 2012, 20:23:47 »
Hope you  have it sorted by now, but  FYI mine would only start up if the heater/ air con was asking for heat. If they were not on, it would not fire up at all. Could be worth a try?

4
Dti was fitted with an erberspatcher heater.  To answer dbdb's questions:

They work much like the oil central heating boiler in you house,    fuel supply, "spark" plug,  heat exchanger, exhaust pipe etc. The thing is started by air/ water temperature sensors, you have no direct control over it on UK models. For colder climates they are often fitted with dash mounted programmer to enable pre-warming.

In my opinion the reason they fail on UK cars is due to the poorly designed mounting bracket  for the heater. This has a wonderful 5- 8mm gap between it and the heat exchanger which is aluminium. Over the years the gap fills with road muck and salt and erosion of the aluminium water jacket results in leakage.

They can be heard running with the window open and are most audible after you have got out of the car. They run on for a short while to dissipate heat following ignition turn off.

Size - about as big as a miggy alternator but perhaps a little longer.

Fumes vent via a dog leg shaped exhaust and a  small silencer to the atmosphere under the drivers front wing. Under the right conditions they can produce quite a plume. If you get a plume all the while, yours is probably leaking,check your coolant level !


 Re use on a boat.
I tried for some time to obtain spares for mine a few years ago with no luck. I spoke to various erberspatcher authorised agents who all told be the same thing "GM only mate".  There is a visually similar model ( can't quite remember if it is a 3) but the model number indicates the o/p in KW Other info hidden in the model number indicates if it heats air or water, but I have forgotten the details.

Anyway plenty of them around but not cheap. Commonly used in canal boats , trucks, VW air cooled vans&campers ( for real heat) etc and even in many thousands of BT vans, where they also heat water for hand washing .

Webasto were the kings of these things a few years ago, but I think they have gone out of business?

On my old  DTi, this thing would double the fuel consumption at tick over !

Interestingly newer Vivaro vans have four glow plug like heaters screwed into an aluminium casting in the  coolant jacket. Cheaper, more reliable, easier to maintain, lighter, quieter  .... nuf said?




5
Omega General Help / Re: 2.2 dti - nearly caused an accident
« on: 07 May 2012, 22:04:56 »
 Chris  Hopefully it is  all sorted by now, but just in case!
I don't think that it is advisable to blank the EGR on the 2.2Dti-  I know not why, but have read it several times on this forum. Shame that your egr is almost new, although it may be that like some other Omega engine spares, only the GM version will continue to work over time? Carb cleaner from Halfrauds or any reasonable car spares factor.
Egr can be found under the lump on the side of the plastic trim that sits on top of your cam cover. Remove plastic trim, remove the two egr  fixing bolts (about 8 or 10 mm) pull of the pipe connector and remove your egr.  There is a fairly powerful spring in the egr but IIRC it  is  possible to operate the valve by hand.

Parting thought... do you trust the mechanic who said there are no codes stored? I think I would have liked to have  witnessed this!
Fergy

 

6
Omega General Help / Re: 2.2 dti - nearly caused an accident
« on: 04 May 2012, 20:28:59 »
Have owned 2.2dti estate for about 8 years and have only cleaned EGR once. Car has done 167k and the cleaning took place at about 120k.  EGR is dead easy to remove and  can be cleaned with carb. cleaner and a stiff bristle brush. At the replacement price you have been quoted, I would certainly go for a clean up. It is worth trying to clean the EGR seat when it is out of the engine, not easy to do and really a bit of a "best efforts job".... Certainly have a good look at the seat in the manifold while it is out.

It is a valid point about the inlet manifold and butterfly flap valves being coked up if the EGR is sticking, but the job to clean out that lot is far more involved. Should take you no longer than 20 mins to complete EGR clean on 2.2Dti.

 IIRC it is possible to check operation by sucking on the vac pipe I may be confused here though because I do have access to a vacuum test guage / pump that I may have used.  Suggest it is worth a try anyway!

7
Omega General Help / Re: Whine from wheel bearing
« on: 01 April 2012, 22:11:56 »
As Entwood says, check for play by grabbing jacked up wheel at quarter past three ( Position - not time !) http://images.omegaowners.com/forum/smf2000/Smileys/oofstd/grin.gif and and rocking wheel. Then repeat at six o clock. Take great care that your car is properly supported prior to doing this test!

I once replaced both front wheel hubs at about £80 each only to eventually track noise down to front tyres. Strongly suggest that if rocking test does not show up any significant play, you should put front wheels and tyres on the back axle. You would be amazed at the din that some cheap tyres can make. In my experience,they tend to become noisy after several thousand miles.





8
Omega General Help / Re: 2.2 Diesel fault code.
« on: 05 March 2012, 00:11:02 »
Albs -
This pump connector elbow is a pig to see, but can reasonably easily be felt by "lying across the engine bay", you should be able to feel the identity of the connector and pipe sufficiently to be able to disconnect it and allow proper examination. It is simply a push on/ pull off rubber connector with a bend in it. About £13 from VX  only sold in pairs and delivered from Germany virtually overnight !

 A Vac  test kit is the easiest thing to use when faulting the vac system in my opinion. Consists of a hand pump/ vac gauge, manual valve, adaptor and pipe  E.G.  http://www.jhmbuttco.com/acatalog/Shop_Pressure_Testing_241.html



 Mr Entwood - There is a partial vacuum created by the pistons descending in all cars engines.  In an (old design) petrol engine the vacuum is created by the carburettor having a restriction (the venturi). This vacuum is increased when the throttle flap is closed and the engine is on over run, hence your wipers speed up !

In general diesels can gulp in as much air as they like, not having a venturi or throttle butterfly. ... I think!

9
Omega General Help / Re: 2.2 Diesel fault code.
« on: 04 March 2012, 21:12:28 »
With respect Mr Entwood, your experience would probably be absolutely correct for a petrol engine, but me thinks that the vacuum in the system on a 2.2Dti originates from a cam shaft driven vacuum pump rather than the manifold- ? Perhaps we need a vacuum pump because there is no inlet manifold vacuum on a diesel engine?

10
Omega General Help / Re: 2.2 Diesel fault code.
« on: 04 March 2012, 20:44:34 »
I would suggest a very careful check of vac pipes, My thinking is that at tick over vac is minimum and any leakage will seriously affect any vac that is present. Favourite is the " elbow connector" on the vac pump, rear of the cam cover.

 Also try repeated brake applications to " use up" the available vac - see if  it then puts the EML  light on.

11
Hi  not sure if this would help you but on the same type of Omega, I recently pulled the wrong fuse (14 iirc)  whilst working on the car. Everything appeared fine until I tried to lock the car having arrived at tesco. It produced exactly the symptoms you describe.
The electrical gurus will be along just now to tell you what fuse 14 under the steering wheel does.

12
Omega General Help / Re: Front Wheel Bearing.
« on: 18 February 2012, 22:27:37 »
Before you do anything else, try swapping the front and back wheels and tyres. I too had very slight play in bearings after about 120k and a noise on steering around corners. After replacing both front hubs, it turned out to be tyre noise from cheap tyres!

13
Omega General Help / Re: Cooling , 2.2 diesel on a 03 plate
« on: 08 February 2012, 23:01:10 »
I agree with VXL V6, they are slow to warm, which is probably why they are fitted with a diesel powered micro central heating boiler
 (eberspacher D3W) that heats the coolant when ambient temp is below about 5C. 

After  11 years my diesel heater has just failed and I have noticed that the car takes longer to warm through than when it was working. These things are expensive to replace  and most ( including me) simply bypass them when they leak coolant.

Have a look under the drivers side front wing and see if you can spot a silvery coloured thingee with a miniature exhaust pipe in front of the wheel. If not, it has been removed and by passed.

14
Omega General Help / Re: 2001 2.2dti flat spot
« on: 08 February 2012, 22:50:07 »
Hi  - The easy way to test the vac. pipes is with a vac. pump and gauge. This will allow you to develop a vacuum in the system and note the vac gauge reading; noting any difference after a couple of minutes. By breaking down the vac. system it really does make it easy to identify problems. Unfortunately not a cheap bit of kit. Perhaps you could borrow one?

Don't forget to check the rubber "elbow" on the cars vac. pump.  It is located on the cabin end of the cam cover and is almost impossible to see, but can be felt and disconnected for inspection. This connector transmits the vacuum to all vac. systems except the brake servo.

Available from VX  in pairs only (!) at about £13, but you could probably get something suitable from a factor a good bit cheaper.

 Also carefully check vac. pipes along side of cam cover, I have known them suffer damage following work on EGR etc.

 Best of luck

15
Most likely to be power sounder but here is a bit of an unusual cause of alarm triggering about 30 mins.after lock up.

Does the heated rear screen work ?

I had this problem which was proved to be due to busted heated rear screen element.  It was caused by carrying a large woody hydrangea in the back of the full car. The woody stems managed to bust every single strand of the heater element during a 14 mile journey. I did manage to disable this continuity check by changing the wiring in the front drivers foot well side panel, until the screen was replaced, but it is so long ago I have forgotten what I did!
The integrity of the rear screen is checked by the alarm system via the heater element continuity.
Check with a meter across the element connectors , or even on the actual wires on the inside of the rear screen.

best of luck

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