Right then chaps, everything is going great. sorted the cam timing with belt off and locked the cams, done water pump, removed backing plate etc etc. and it's all back together. however. little bit of a problem....just about to replace the cambelt and looked and it has no markings. there is the lettering still there with ''DO NOT CRIMP'' and the other lettering further along with a bar code and ''G'' at the end of it but no double marking for the crank and no single markings for the cams.
now i know the bar code with ''G'' should go over cams 1/2 but what do i do about the no markings?
Am i done for with regards to putting the old belt back or are there some trucks of the trade?
cheers dudes
Hi Webby,
Right -
Lazydocker is absolutely right, in as much as the marks on the belt are only there to aid fitment. They are not essential.
One point you need to note is this. When a used cambelt is removed, with the intention to refit - it should always, no exceptions, be refitted in the same direction of travel as it came off.
So, for example, if the writing on the belt was facing towards you when you removed it - it goes in in the same rotation when it goes back on.
What you need to do is this:
1) Cams locked in correct place
2) Crank at TDC.
3) Ensure the backplate is fitted with the tensioner and upper idler, and ensure these are loose and free to adjust (NB, the lower right idler should not yet be fitted). Back off the tensioner as far as it will go.
4) Now start routing the cambelt. Start at the crank, then route over the tensioner. NOTE - do not pull this stretch of the belt tottally tight. There should be quite a bit of slack here at this stage (which will be taken up by the tensioner). When you have routed it over the crank, and up to the tensioner, insert the wedge to hold the belt in place against the crank sprocket.
5) route the belt around cams 1 and 2, and then the top idler. When you've done this, before you offer the belt to the next bank of cams, twist the idler with your finger to ensure there is no slack. Now route the belt over cams 3 and 4. Note there should be no slack on the belt run between the two cams on each bank. Then route the belt on it's final run, back towards the other side of the crank pulley.
6) Holding the belt in position with one hand, reach for your third arm (it gets easier over time) and pop the lower right idler into place, twist the aduster round on this idler until the bolt lines up with the hole in the block. NB ensure the washer is correctly located on the rear of the idler, don't let it drop off and forget it else you're in trouble...
7) Set lower right idler arrow to approx 1 o clock, nipping up the bolt.
Turn upper idler anticlockwise until it takes up the tension, it'll probably end up in the 9 or 10 o clock position depending on engine year.
9) using alan key, hold tensioner so the mark on it is in correct place, and then nip up with open ended 13mm spanner to hold in place.
10) Quick visual check to make sure everything is where it should be.
11) Rotate engine until all of the marks are about to line up again. When it's just before TDC, apply water pump locking tool, and lock at TDC.
12) Check banks 3 and 4 with measuring tool. Adjust lower right idler if needed (turning adjuster anti clockwise will advance the cams)
13) When happy 3 and 4 are set correctly, Do the same with cams 1 and 2, using the top idler.
14) Back off the tension, and re-set to correct position.
15) Torque all the bolts to spec, ensuring you don't move any idlers while doing so (hold in place with 30mm spanner)
16) Turn the engine over again by hand, re-lock in place, and ensure everything still lines up. If it does - happy days, on with the cover.
If ever you decide it's going completely pete tong, a) don't force anything that won't go, and b) if you need to, start again with the crank at 60deg before TDC (4 o clock position) - set the cams correctly, crank to TDC, and try again.
Hope this helps. It may not be the book way, but it's my way. Some prefer to route it over the lower right idler first, which is fine - but I don't think that's the way encouraged on the DVD - so I'd stick with the DVD method for now.
Any problems post up
If this is your first V6 cambelt, I would be inclined to turn the engine over several times by hand when you think it's correctly set up, check, double and triple check. There's no harm in that. If you get really stuck, then don't let it get to you - just ask again
Good luck
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