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Replace wishbones with Lemforder

Replace wishbones with Meyle

Replace with el-cheap

Refurb originals with new rear bushes and a new balljoint

[05omegav6]

With different springs and poly bushes, are all the shocks now being directed through the only weakpoint left

There isn't really anything to the rear bush.

1. The outer shell.
2.  The central bush, which is a simple tube, crushed in such a way that it bulges in the middle.
3. The damping rubber.

The outer shell cannot move, the central bush is mounted vertically, with nothing but rubber holding it all together.

What would the pros and cons be of replacing the soft squishy rubber with poly...

[feeutfo]

Q razzo...


But by my last comment I mean...

That if the front genuine bush fails, then the rear, giving four failed bushes then its difficult to tell what bush is causing what fault/pull sensation etc.

But if the front bush is reliable as in poly, then the only fault left is the rear bush that can only give the sensation TB had on his car, although if bad enough they can knock as well. Assuming both bushes don't fail at the exact same rate to even up the play exactly.


Razzo has a polly solution, of sorts, but IMHO there needs to be a way to locate the height of the wishbone on the bush, as the bulb shape does in the oe bush, without restricting movement and transmitting forces through the metal arm itself. As that is a crumple zone area, and I can vouch personally for that one.

[razzo]

With different springs and poly bushes, are all the shocks now being directed through the only weakpoint left

There isn't really anything to the rear bush.

1. The outer shell.
2.  The central bush, which is a simple tube, crushed in such a way that it bulges in the middle.
3. The damping rubber.

The outer shell cannot move, the central bush is mounted vertically, with nothing but rubber holding it all together.

What would the pros and cons be of replacing the soft squishy rubber with poly...

pressed poly rears into mine about 2 years & 40k miles ago, advice from one of the poly bush maufacturers was don't as it will cause too much vibration so asked Tony at WIM & he said it won't be a problem. Bush is not bonded so will not rip but they have to be pressed in with a bench vice, just finishing refurbing a pair for SWMBO's car

   

[TheBoy]

With different springs and poly bushes, are all the shocks now being directed through the only weakpoint left

There isn't really anything to the rear bush.

1. The outer shell.
2.  The central bush, which is a simple tube, crushed in such a way that it bulges in the middle.
3. The damping rubber.

The outer shell cannot move, the central bush is mounted vertically, with nothing but rubber holding it all together.

What would the pros and cons be of replacing the soft squishy rubber with poly...

pressed poly rears into mine about 2 years & 40k miles ago, advice from one of the poly bush maufacturers was don't as it will cause too much vibration so asked Tony at WIM & he said it won't be a problem. Bush is not bonded so will not rip but they have to be pressed in with a bench vice, just finishing refurbing a pair for SWMBO's car

   

Hmmm, that looks to be an option worth testing...

[feeutfo]

And heres some comparison pics of LF bones I found while looking for sumat else

[TheBoy]

Is the LF the old one or the shiney one?

[JamesV6CDX]

Not sure if it's just me, but I'm not totally comfortable with the way one of Razzo's above pictures has the balljoint assembly bolted on. I'm sure it's fine, but...

Maybe you need to use bolts with a certain shear tolerance etc.. is this known?

[Andy H]

Who supplies Meyle kit?

AGP

I had a look at the Meyle suspension arms on the Allgerman web site and it struck me how little the Omega front suspension has advanced since the 'V' platform was launched in the late 1970's 

I think my MkI Carlton had the same wishbones (with the steering stop that destroys itself if the front suspension moves with steering on full lock)

[YZ250]

pressed poly rears into mine about 2 years & 40k miles ago, advice from one of the poly bush maufacturers was don't as it will cause too much vibration so asked Tony at WIM & he said it won't be a problem. Bush is not bonded so will not rip but they have to be pressed in with a bench vice, just finishing refurbing a pair for SWMBO's car

I really do like the idea of Poly rear bush but is the highlighted bit above the very reason that they don't sell the rear bush. Surely, if they thought they could market it they would have done, especially as they already have the kit for the front bush. 

Maybe they're not willing to risk it in case of come backs for the reasons stated above.  Hopefully Razzo has proved these concerns to be unjustified.   

They do look good though and I respect the workmanship and time that has gone in to producing them. 

Reference the bolt-on ball joint, it specifically tells you to only use the bolts supplied with the replacement ball joint. 

[feeutfo]

"

Is the LF the old one or the shiney one?

LF is the shiny new.

It's quite an old pic though, and I can't verify the make of the rusty one. I believe rusty one is what Mark kindly refurbed with Merle heavy duty bushes at Newent.

[Andy H]

Not sure if it's just me, but I'm not totally comfortable with the way one of Razzo's above pictures has the balljoint assembly bolted on. I'm sure it's fine, but...

Maybe you need to use bolts with a certain shear tolerance etc.. is this known?

I have just drilled out the rivets on my old wishbones and they were easy to drill so not high tensile.

The bolts in the photo look like the ones that came with the ball joints I collected from Evans Halshaw on Friday. (if that proves anything.......)

It looks to me as though there is a large clamped surface between the sheet metal of the wishbone and the forging of the ball joint. The bolts (machine screws?) don't seem to have any straight shank (ie they are fully threaded) so the clamping force must do all the work.

[05omegav6]

From a repair/maintainance perspective,  bolted must be better

Can't see the ball joint assembly being any different regardless of how it's attatched

[razzo]

Not sure if it's just me, but I'm not totally comfortable with the way one of Razzo's above pictures has the balljoint assembly bolted on. I'm sure it's fine, but...

Maybe you need to use bolts with a certain shear tolerance etc.. is this known?

those bolts are the ones that came with the ball joint from VX dealer

[Lazydocker]

No concerns with bolting the ball joints... Many other manufacturers have used that method for a very long time

Personally looking at the potential of rebushing and new joints on mine but may well fit new bones (poly'd) and then prep these ones over time, including a rub down and re-paint

[TheBoy]

Who supplies Meyle kit?

AGP

I had a look at the Meyle suspension arms on the Allgerman web site and it struck me how little the Omega front suspension has advanced since the 'V' platform was launched in the late 1970's 

I think my MkI Carlton had the same wishbones (with the steering stop that destroys itself if the front suspension moves with steering on full lock)

Omega is a V chassis, so will use V chassis components, albeit in a (hopefully!) more refined/tweaked format. Omega is the last of teh Opel/Vauxhall V chassis designs, although Holden still use it.