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[car5car]

Is 01 sensor wide-band? 00?

[cem_devecioglu]

Is 01 sensor wide-band? 00?

omega dont use wideband sensors..

[cem_devecioglu]

oh and one final question ( i think).....

when turning the crank to get the relevant piston at TDC, as i'll be using the ''tissue and screwdriver'' method... if i go past TDC compression and move on to power stroke, can i turn crank anti-clockwise to get it back? or is it one of those engines (the V6) that doesn't allow that? 

 
nope.. always clockwise..   
 
 
ps: dont know about your "tissue and screwdriver" method

[car5car]

I always install same O2 sensor on all cars, I just attach original connector. You just need to know which wire goes where. $18 sensor.
I even installed the same 4 wire sensor on a car with 2-wire sensor.
This one:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_premium-oxygen-sensor-bosch_20471661-p?searchTerm=oxygen+sensor+15122

[Webby the Bear]

Right then chaps, productive evening and morning 

MAF - Supply voltage good (checked the connection). Can't check the MAF voltage itself as I need to 'T' pin it and I'm not doing that without supervision because I know I'll 'dangle berries' it up and break something. However, just coming back to the TechII session it says I'm getting 9kg/hr. Not sure what this means (9kg of air passing through it per hour, perhaps???  ) but if other folk are getting 11kg/hr doesn't that confirm that the MAF is bad and needs replacing?

IAT - As per Cem's post this is good 

TPS - I haven't tested this and I don't think I'm going to as I can't find any Net literature which says this will affect fuel economy (all I can find is symptoms relating to hesitation and power loss). I do have a spare throttle body & TPS from Ralf  so if I can test this off the car I will do and I'll replace if that's good just for the hell of it. 

CTS - In short to get all that way to get the plenum off and the inlets out, I'm just going to replace this with a Vx genuine... I don't like ''chucking parts at it'' but ths part is just over £11 on TC. I'd rather just replace it for the sake of getting that far.

Exhaust leaks - Going to do this at the weekend. How much RPM should I raise it to and for how long? I'm presuming I'll see any leaks straight away so I'm just going to lay under the car while Dad is caining the throttle and see what I can see. 

Compression/Leak Down - trying to arrange this at school today for some time later this month.

Injector Servicing - if all of the above is good/done and still no change, I am going to have these serviced (thanks for the info on that Kevin Wood).

If the above doesn't resolve it then I'm stumped.

The only two other things I can think of to do is test the thermostat and O2 sensors. My car gets up to temp. within a few mins. I do notice that sometimes it will go up to say 95o and sometimes it will have dropped to 85o but it stays in that area and doesnt go any lower or any higher. I thought that was good?

Cheers guys. We will get this sorted!!! 

[Webby the Bear]

Thinking about it now the car all this morning was running around 85oC everytime I looked at it. Could it be this? 

[cem_devecioglu]

Thinking about it now the car all this morning was running around 85oC everytime I looked at it. Could it be this? 

newish models stay at lower temperatures as far as I know but not sure.. as mine is a historic model
 
lets see what other members say..
 
ps: Webbie, cars consume more fuel in winter time as expected , what was your summer fuel avg ?
 
     is your cambelt exactly aligned ?
     sometimes Ecu retards ignition for some reason but not sure how you can detect it..
 
pps: last week I used my miggy on a heavy traffic whole day and it finished 30£s of fuel in a day..
 

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks Cem 

Drove back on B roads from school for 20 minutes and temp. gauge stayed at 85oC.... didn't hit the mid 90oC once. So do you guys think this could be the problem?

I had a thought whilst at college as we've been learning fuel systems (and more specifically air:fuel ratios).....

I've always wondered to myself if actually the MPG I'm getting is correct or not. I know TB said the MID was displaying some high consumption readings. But...

Should I get the car up to temp. and get a hydrocarbon exhaust emmission reading to raly verify the problem instead of going on what we believe it should be? If I have a rich mixture this will be shown in the high level of hydrocarbons and therefore will definitively confirm that she is running rich. If the hydrocarbons level is normal or close to the ''chemically correct'' air:fuel ratio then I can say I actually don't have a problem and it's just a thirsty car.... does that make sense?

 

[Webby the Bear]

Edit:

or would a high carbon monoxide reading be found? 

[Entwood]

Just remember ... the temp you see on the gauge is NOT always the temp the ECU thinks the engine is .. two sensors .. one for gauge one for ECU..... they may be the same .. they may not .... To check the ECU temp you need to plug into a system that does live data.

[Webby the Bear]

Just remember ... the temp you see on the gauge is NOT always the temp the ECU thinks the engine is .. two sensors .. one for gauge one for ECU..... they may be the same .. they may not .... To check the ECU temp you need to plug into a system that does live data.

That makes sense. So a new CTS (cheap) and a new thermostat would rule those potential issues out?

What do you think of getting the exh. emmissions results? I've just called Kwikfit and the cost will be a tenner so I'm thinking it would be worth it to have it definitely confirmed that it's using too much fuel? 

[Webby the Bear]

...Even better... Harpers Pit Stop... £5 

(note to self, between 1.30 and 3)

[Abiton]

Tailpipe readings of HCs and CO may not be very informative unfortunately, because if your cats are doing their job, both types of pollutant will be largely converted into water and CO2 before they get to your measuring kit.

If you're not already monitoring your consumption by the brim tank and record miles travelled method, start now, then only compare your numbers with those given by others using the same method. 

A site like spritmonitor.de is about the best way of finding real-world info about specific cars and variants thereof.
This seems to be the situation for petrol Omegas: http://www.spritmonitor.de/en/overview/35-Opel/331-Omega.html?fueltype=2&powerunit=2

Being a German site, the figures are in litres/100km, but google seems pretty good at converting into our more familiar units, just make sure you get it into UK mpg, not US, as their gallons are smaller!  I'm not familiar enough with the spritmonitor site to know if you can change units on there.

[Webby the Bear]

Tailpipe readings of HCs and CO may not be very informative unfortunately, because if your cats are doing their job, both types of pollutant will be largely converted into water and CO2 before they get to your measuring kit.

If you're not already monitoring your consumption by the brim tank and record miles travelled method, start now, then only compare your numbers with those given by others using the same method. 

A site like spritmonitor.de is about the best way of finding real-world info about specific cars and variants thereof.
This seems to be the situation for petrol Omegas: http://www.spritmonitor.de/en/overview/35-Opel/331-Omega.html?fueltype=2&powerunit=2

Being a German site, the figures are in litres/100km, but google seems pretty good at converting into our more familiar units, just make sure you get it into UK mpg, not US, as their gallons are smaller!  I'm not familiar enough with the spritmonitor site to know if you can change units on there.

Thanks for the info mate. Yep, already checked it using the brim method and it's coming back at 19mpg (ALL town driving).

I'll check that site out though mate, thanks a lot 

[Abiton]

Probably best to filter out the Omega A results by specifying manufacture date 1995-2003 on the left, and then you can tweak for gearbox type, engine size (if you know your bhp/PS number) to narrow it down further.