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[cem_devecioglu]

having said that i think the CTS results were good from my last techII and i still had the high consumption. ill post up when i get in tonight

thanks cem 

be sure there is not even a pin hole on exhaust system (before lambdas)..  it effects radically.

so between exh. manifold and o2 sensor? how can i check for a pin hole if its so small? 

you need to be under the car when its working.. otherwise you cant find..

shouldnt be a problem mate. i can get it on the ramps here 

if its a pin hole will i see smoke coming out of it?

yep.. if someone hammers it easier to find

nice one mate.

i presume then also if there was a leak at the exh. manifold between it and the block (gasket) i'll see that too?
i dont think theres a manifold leak... never seen any smoke or anything in engine bay but hey, its another thing to check aint it 

if there is a leak when you bought it you may never know you will think this sound is normal like as I do
 
unless it increases to a more severe state..
 

[Webby the Bear]

having said that i think the CTS results were good from my last techII and i still had the high consumption. ill post up when i get in tonight

thanks cem 

be sure there is not even a pin hole on exhaust system (before lambdas)..  it effects radically.

so between exh. manifold and o2 sensor? how can i check for a pin hole if its so small? 

you need to be under the car when its working.. otherwise you cant find..

shouldnt be a problem mate. i can get it on the ramps here 

if its a pin hole will i see smoke coming out of it?

yep.. if someone hammers it easier to find

nice one mate.

i presume then also if there was a leak at the exh. manifold between it and the block (gasket) i'll see that too?
i dont think theres a manifold leak... never seen any smoke or anything in engine bay but hey, its another thing to check aint it 

if there is a leak when you bought it you may never know you will think this sound is normal like as I do
 
unless it increases to a more severe state..

to be honest it sounds great (following a quick oil change and wynns). no bad noises at all touch wood.

i would have thought i'd have seen smoke in the engine bay though?

anyways ill do as you say and ill check that too 

as my MAF was off of Ralph i was considering buying this cleaner. ive heard a lot of good stuff about it especially relating to cleaning mafs. would you agree...

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_195717_langId_-1_categoryId_255223

[cem_devecioglu]

not sure Webby..   
 
it depends on its components.. maf is a sensitive part ..
 
but some years ago my mechanic friend cleaned it with brake pad spray

[cem_devecioglu]

thats seems suitable
http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05110-Mass-Sensor-Cleaner/dp/B000J19XSA

[Lazydocker]

I wouldn't advise cleaning the MAF with anything... They are very sensitive

[Marks DTM Calib]

If the lambda's are switching then the mixture is going to be pretty close to ok.

Hence it may well be the engine is ok and the power is being lost/consumed elsewhere

[Webby the Bear]

thanks mark. If thats the case i wont need to worry about the o2 sensors as i wasnt looking forward to that. So looking at all the stuff I've done i can only think of compression or faulty injectors?

[dbug]

I wouldn't advise cleaning the MAF with anything... They are very sensitive

Second that - easy to cock them up

[Webby the Bear]

Just posted this on the school blog  but here's the plan of action...........................


Ok boys, I'm home, relaxed, I have my tool kit, a lamp light and I have a multi-meter borrowed from the lovely technician from school 

I'm praying someone can answer my Q's tonight as I only have this multi-meter for tonight (don't want to push my luck too much  )

These were the results from a TechII session with TB (thanks mate):

When he turned up, O2 BLMs:
Integrators, around 100 (low)
Idle (B1 - 190, B2 - 160) (high)
Partial Load, around 130 (good)

Air/fuel ratio (Rich/Lean) seemed sluggish at idle, flipped at about 1Hz at 2000rpm, lazy lamdas, both banks.

Reset BLMs, took for drive, all around the 130 mark, except at idle, when integrators crept to 150ish, with Air/Fuel showing lean until then, then flipped at 0.33 - 1Hz

Seemed slightly down on power to me, although Webby said otherwise. MID readings for instantaneous consumption seemed quite low - I'd expect mid to high 30s average when cruising 50-60mph, reality was mid/high 20s. MID has correct 035 config, and readings seem to match Webby's experience of it using more fuel recently. This leads me to suspect that the engine is really using that amount of fuel, rather than leaks (which I couldn't detect, or smell).

After test run, brakes still cold. EGR can get to about 55% before the thing really splutters. Injector cut-off exactly as expected.

MAF, at idle, with A/C off, 9kg/hr.

Last Sunday I got the EGR cleaned out (thanks Martin) and I did an oil change and she runs lovely and seems to want to go!  but still getting the high consupmtion.

People who know me know I have to have my house in order otherwise I get all confused hence the massive thread (so apologies fo that) but this is what I'm going to do. All you have to do is tell me if I'm wrong or right in my approach... oh and questions in red 

INTAKE AIR TEMP. (IAT) SENSOR

I've actually done this already tonight As per Autodata it says to switch ignition off, disconnect the sensor, check ambient temp. and check resistance between the sensor terminals (two of them).
Autodata says ambient temp. should be 15-30oC. And the resistance readings as per below. I had just ran the car for about twenty minutes so things were ''toasty'' under there so I presume that's why I'm getting a high resistance reading of 2040 ohmes (2.04 on the 20k scale).


MAS AIRFLOW (MAF) SENSOR

I haven't done this one yet as it's just started raining  (am going out there again irrespective of the rain as I'm determined to clear this up). Anyway the procedure I'm going to follow is this...I have two options for voltage... AC or DC. Which one should I use to check the voltage???


THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS)

Again, I haven't done this one because of the rain but again procedure I'll follow...When it says access TP sensor multi-plug terminals... but don't disconnect the multi-plug... wellhow the hell am I supposed to check it??? lol. And both of these checks on the image (Fig. 4 & Fig. 5) I'm supposed to check the actualsensor itself and not it's plug going in???


COOLANT TEMP. SENSOR (CTS)

Obviously, this isn't one for tonight but I want to get this bad boy done at the weekend. But here's the procedure I'm going to follow:


CHECKING BATTERY VOLTAGE

I don't think this is going to affect fuel consumption (or could it?  but I am aware it can affect performance and as I have the meter I may as well check it... should be 12.5, not drop below 10 on start up and go to around 14.5 when running, right???

EXHAUST LEAKS

As per Cem's posts (thanks for them mate) I am going to get the car up on the ramps at school and get someone to give it the beans while I'm underneath looking for smoke or any sign of exhaust leaks between the exhaust manifold and the O2 sensors.

If all of the above work out fine then I'm thinking I need to look at the commpression and do a leak down test. If that's ok then I'd have to reasonably conclude it's the injectors that are bad (leaking perhaps?)

Lot of info there but if someone could confirm all of the above I'll love you forever  (not that I don't anyway you big set of girls 

[cem_devecioglu]

Maf reading normal 9kg/hr mine was reading around 10-11..
 
IAT normal..
 
 
always use DC voltage.. also for maf
 
 
no need to mess with tps imo..
 
cts procdure seems ok
 
for battery voltage check Kevins thread about battery voltages
 
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90619.0
 

ps: compression test is good idea.. 
 

[Webby the Bear]

Maf reading normal 9kg/hr mine was reading around 10-11..
 
IAT normal..
 
 
always use DC voltage.. also for maf
 
 
no need to mess with tps imo..
 
cts procdure seems ok
 
for battery voltage check Kevins thread about battery voltages
 
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90619.0
 

ps: compression test is good idea.. 

Absolute legend Cem, Thank you.

You are the inaugral winner of the B.I.A.P.T trophy..... (Bear in a pick-up truck)



 

[Webby the Bear]

Only one thing.....how do I do the 2nd test on the MAF where it says not to disconnect it and to run the car? I've done a bit of reading and I've read about using pins and ''back probing''. Is this what they need me to do with this test? If so any idea how I do it?

 

[cem_devecioglu]

Only one thing.....how do I do the 2nd test on the MAF where it says not to disconnect it and to run the car? I've done a bit of reading and I've read about using pins and ''back probing''. Is this what they need me to do with this test? If so any idea how I do it?

 

you need to insert needles through the cables.. and avometer probes on the needles

[Webby the Bear]

Only one thing.....how do I do the 2nd test on the MAF where it says not to disconnect it and to run the car? I've done a bit of reading and I've read about using pins and ''back probing''. Is this what they need me to do with this test? If so any idea how I do it?

 

you need to insert needles through the cables.. and avometer probes on the needles

Thanks mate. I think I'll get some supervision for that as I don't want to wreck everything.... but at least I can check the other things 

[Webby the Bear]

oh and one final question ( i think).....

when turning the crank to get the relevant piston at TDC, as i'll be using the ''tissue and screwdriver'' method... if i go past TDC compression and move on to power stroke, can i turn crank anti-clockwise to get it back? or is it one of those engines (the V6) that doesn't allow that?