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[Webby the Bear]

I'd pull the two purple relays at the back of the engine bay relay box. Fuel pump and ECU disabled.

If you just disable the fuel pump, the ignition will still be active, and may cause a shock, or kill the coil pack.

Thanks guys 

Any chance of a photo of the two relays I need to pull just so i dont balls it up 

So...

remove these two relays. then do i still need to disconnect the disspac or is there a relay or fuse i can pull for this? would make it that bit easier as the connector to the dispac is quite hard to get to 

You can't go wrong Webby... Engine bay relay box, 2 Purple Relays They stop Pump and ECU so the dis pack won't fire

ok lazy thanks.... should i then run car until it cuts out to guarantee no petrol injected?

You will struggle with those two relays out

Well the idea being to rid the fuel between fuel pump and engine, then once it dies you know its out of fuel. then simply prime the fuel pump before starting when its all back together

[Webby the Bear]

...or are we saying that this relay will actually STOP the injectors? sorry if ive got confused 

[Abiton]

...or are we saying that this relay will actually STOP the injectors? sorry if ive got confused 

Injectors are controlled by ECU, so disable ECU, no injection.

[Webby the Bear]

...or are we saying that this relay will actually STOP the injectors? sorry if ive got confused 

Injectors are controlled by ECU, so disable ECU, no injection.

Ok, now I got it, sorry for confusion.

Is there also a better way of stopping the spark instead of disconnecting the disspac? 

[Abiton]

If you just pull the two relays Kevin suggests, you don't need to do anything more. Read his post again.

[Webby the Bear]

nice one thanks for that and everyones help 

[Webby the Bear]

Evening guys, hope you're all well.

Firstly as said before I'm not bumping this thread...just thought I'd update with stuff that I do as I do it

Well firstly I'll be ordering the compression test kit as soon as I'm paid and although I don't anticipate (hopefully) a compression issue it's something I want to do to check the health of the old girl 

ANYHOW.... Whipped out the disspac today in my free period. I was stupid really cos if I didnt do it in time I'd have been there still now  but luckily it was a lot easier than it was the first time I did it. Anyway he disspac looked ok. It had no corrosion on it and I had a multimeter on it. Firstly looked up the correct resistance tests in the ignition bible we have......




So it tested as follows:

Secondary: (ON THEOHMS 20K SCALE)
2&5 - 11530........... GOOD

3&6 - 11590........... GOOD

1&4 - 11550........... GOOD

Primary: (ON THE OHMS 200 SCALE)
Pin 1&4 - 0.60........... GOOD
Pin 2&4 - 1.1............. BAD
Pin 3&4 - 1.1............. BAD

So......
Do we reckon the primary resistance is really bad or in the real world should it still function and be ok? And this is what is potentially causing the issue.

Another stupid thing I did was not bring my spare with me and stick that in  i can be so dumb at times.


On the next issue about exhaust leaks (if it's not the disspac) I'm obviously checking first everything thats free to check (without replcing any parts).

I found this Ehow site....
http://www.ehow.com/how_2192129_test-car-exhaust-manifold-leaks.html
would this be the way to go tocheck for exhaust leaks? the reason I ask about exhaust leaks this early is because i started the car up this morning (-0.5oC) and while i went round the car to scrape the snow off there was a noticeable ticking from underneath just behind the front road wheels and inwards... it was the same the other side too  as soon as it was warm (i checked it when i arrived at school) and it had gone away. Any ideas? 

[Webby the Bear]

Hi guys,
Had an inteesting conversation with my tutor following us coincidentally starting air intake and exhaust systems this week (will update blog tonight  )
Anyway, I mentioned my fuel consumption issue and I asked how they test for exhaust leaks in the trade. He looked at me as if I was perhaps a mad man  and said ''you should know, you've just used the gas analyser''.
So getting in to it further he said that if you had any kind of exhaust leak however small (and I double checked that included manifold to CAT) this would affec the emissions test and after explaining I've just had one done and the bloke doing it said they were ''perfect'' he said you definitely don't have an exhaust leak 

Now i cant remember where i saw it but i mentioned that someone had told me that the cat would sort out all the emissions 'discrepencies' via the CAT and that it isnt a true reading but he said that was wrong and he maintained that if you had any kind of leak your emissions would be affected.

SO. as i have perfect emissions  i'm thinking it would be wise to put the exhaust leak investigation on to the back burner (no pun).

i also mentioned this rattling that seemed to be coming from underneath.... well i started her up this morning (-1.5oC) and i traced that 'tick tick tick' and that was actally coming from the drivers side cam cover. all quiet on the passenger side. noise went within 2 mins so i'm thinking that this was just a stuck lifter (that i'm aware of and trying to sort out as a seperate issue).


ps, anyone have any thoughts on the last post re the disspac?

as said before i'm not bumping. i genuinely think this could help others (and i think theres a few of us  ) that have got or will get the same roblem 

[Webby the Bear]

Just had the car come out of F1 Autocentre.

No leaks between cat and manifold at all. A very small leak near the backbox but they've filled that. All for free!

So I can tick this off the list in my diagnosis.

More to come this weekend I think 

[Marks DTM Calib]

Your tutor is wrong by the way, I feel hes struggling to fully understand how the mixture control works.

IF there is a leak pre O2 sensor then oxygen will be detected and more fuel added, the oxygen from this leak will ignite in the cat/front pipe and the emmission reading will not be affected....consumption would increase and block learn values would drift off. This is actualy how the air injection works as the unburnt fuel burns in the down pipes when the air is injected and hence heat the cats quicker (e.g. working proof of the principle)

As for the coil pack, did you see any signs of corrosion on the iron core?

The resistance measurement differences you see are probably outside the accuracy of the meter being used. 

And as I have said before, dont just consider the engine, consumption can increase due to other factors including things potentialy 'wasting energy; such as blocked exhaust etc

[aaronjb]

Your tutor is wrong by the way, I feel hes struggling to fully understand how the mixture control works.

I think that's uncharacteristically generous, there, Mark.. 

[Marks DTM Calib]

Your tutor is wrong by the way, I feel hes struggling to fully understand how the mixture control works.

I think that's uncharacteristically generous, there, Mark.. 

I still have some Christmas cheer left

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks again Mark 

That explanation of emissions/exhaust leaks makes sense.... basically any leak can affect economy without having an affect on emissions. I suppose this is why I question so much in search of the right answer lol but cheers for clearing that up.

I'm glad that the autocentre found only one small leak near the backbox (which they filled). I can at least now cross exhaust leaks off the list.... so as it's not a leak am I to do the marigold test again? faierly certain it has good pressure. will this prove if there's a blockage or not or will i need to go deeper?

[Webby the Bear]

oh and disspac looked fine. there didnt appear to be any cracking anywhere with any rust parts showing.

i think for purposes of completeness i'm going to swap it out anyway. it's there sitting in my garage... may as well cross that off the list 

[Marks DTM Calib]

There can be rust and no cracking