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[tunnie]

For a bit of background, see here: http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=114022.0

Thought a new thread was needed as this is a help request!

Today I ran the car again for a couple of minutes, with everthing the way it should be, stopped and removed plug 1. Dry! So that suggests injector 1 is not firing?

To sanity check, I've done a compression test on pot 1 & pot 2, both have identical readings of just over 13 bar.



So off with the plenum, to check injector loom, as it was a possibility I had somehow pulled off the connector or damaged the loom, but as suspected its all ok. Connect is on and can see no damage.



Now I've never removed an injector, looks like the inlet manifold has to some off, but no idea how you then separate it from the inlet itself.

The HT lead is fine, tripple checked it all as I replaced all the HT leads. (also checked the order is right)

What started all this was a split HT lead to pot1, which TB said was arching on inspection. Could this fry the injector or do other damage? 

[Kevin Wood]

That reminds me. I dug out a few spare injectors if you need them?

If you remove the intake manifold, then remove all the screws securing the fuel rail to the manifold, you should be able to carefully ease that side of the rail away from the manifold taking the injectors with it. A bit of plus gas around the base of the injectors can sometimes help ease the rubber seals out of their hole in the manifold.

Once the injectors are free of the manifold, you'll see a little clip securing the top of the injector to the rail. Remove that and, again, ease the injector out of the rail.

Before you do that, though, measure the resistance of the injector coil between the 2 pins in the plug. Should be 12-15 ohms. Also worth checking the resistance between the injector socket and the relevant pin on the ECU plug.

[tunnie]

That reminds me. I dug out a few spare injectors if you need them?

If you remove the intake manifold, then remove all the screws securing the fuel rail to the manifold, you should be able to carefully ease that side of the rail away from the manifold taking the injectors with it. A bit of plus gas around the base of the injectors can sometimes help ease the rubber seals out of their hole in the manifold.

Once the injectors are free of the manifold, you'll see a little clip securing the top of the injector to the rail. Remove that and, again, ease the injector out of the rail.

Before you do that, though, measure the resistance of the injector coil between the 2 pins in the plug. Should be 12-15 ohms. Also worth checking the resistance between the injector socket and the relevant pin on the ECU plug.

Depending on the outcome of this, I think I may do Kev. Many thanks for the offer 

Ahh yess, errmmm measuring electricity. Might have to wait for little fatty on that one, as I don't have a meter 

[Marks DTM Calib]

If the injector is open circuit then a fault code will be logged.

If the injector is stuck then it wont be althoguh you cna tell using a scope.

[aaronjb]

If the injector is stuck then it wont be althoguh you cna tell using a scope.

On other cars I've also used the 'long screwdriver onto injector, rubber end into ear' trick to hear an injector clicking - though off the top of my head I can't remember if that's possible on the Omega due to access.. Clearly been a while since I opened the bonnet 

[Kevin Wood]

Very true, I couldn't remember if the non-DBW ECUs monitored the injector circuits.

You can also apply 12v to them briefly and see if they "click". Still doesn't tell you if the nozzle is blocked, of course.

Another avenue is to disable the fuel pump (pull the relay / fuse), disable the ignition (unplug the coil pack), remove the spark plugs, remove any tissues you've stuffed down the intakes(!) and crank the engine while listening to each injector with a screwdriver.

For the brave, re-enable the fuel pump (only), ensure fuel lines are connected and have an assistant crank it for a second or two. You should see fuel vapour appear in the intakes if the injectors are doing their thing. Needless to say, do this in a well ventilated area and take every precaution to avoid a spark that could ignite it!

[Marks DTM Calib]

I have in the past removed the injector manifold, pressurised the fuel system and used tech 2 to fire the injectors

[tunnie]

I fear some of these tests are out of my skill set, I think removing the inlet manifold and injector rail is best option for me.

Kev - The injectors you have, are they 3.0? Seen various posts that 3.2 injectors run at a higher fuel pressure? So I assume the injector must also come from a 3.0? Maybe 2.5 as well? 

[Kevin Wood]

I believe they were from a 2.5/3.0 (they are the same), although I'll double check.

[05omegav6]

Was the Dis pack replaced with new what about the plug itself?

What condition is the injector loom plug and its immediate wiring in?

Summat disturbed whilst investigating the ignition issue?

Just to add, fuel rail and injector loom can be removed with the manifold in place

Plenum off, undo the fuel pipes, two bolts next to the fuel lines, three down the centre of the fuel rail, visble once the loom is off 3.2 will bolt staight in for testing purposes

[Marks DTM Calib]

Injector is operating and passing fuel ok, loom is fine (fault code would be raised if injector had an issue).

Sent on his way with a new flexi fitted to the 2.2 front pipe and some tests to do

[05omegav6]

Injector is operating and passing fuel ok, loom is fine (fault code would be raised if injector had an issue).

Sent on his way with a new flexi fitted to the 2.2 front pipe and some tests to do

Points to an ignition issue then

[tunnie]

Thanks again to Mark 

Got my task list:

1) Re-assemble & see if fault is same
2) Tech 2 each injector on/off again, as injectors 1 and 2 were swapped. (was 1 and 2? I've forgotten Mark  )
3) Swap 1 & 4 on the DIS pack, to see if the fault moves.

Its now pointing back to DIS pack, even though visually it checked out ok.

Wondering if the split/arching lead did fry pot 1 somehow, on the DIS 

[Marks DTM Calib]

We moved it from 1 to 3.

[tunnie]

We moved it from 1 to 3.

Cheers