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[chrisgixer]

Pics

New subframe laid over the old one removed. The added box sections are deliberately long, to allow positioning of the engine for and aft.



Should be able to get a long extension and socket from above on both wishbone bolts on both sides now.



These are the current problem areas. Pas side bank 2 rear cylinder is fouling the brake lines, and has to have the coil pacs fitted yet.
The top pic is a poor shot of the steering rack column input shaft, its very close to the starter motor, and currently needs to move a half inch to the scuttle drain side, which means the engine has to go closer to the scuttle, which means the scuttle needs "adjusting" 

As said earlier the brake lines need to be moved, probably up following the under side of the scuttle, then down to the abs pump which will go up and away from the engine where the pas fluid bottle was, well away from heat and exhaust manifolds.

[Nick W]

biggest tip i can give you is try to use a standard length prop! as its likely to be the only thing,that would keep the car off the road for any great length of time if damaged, also makes (usually) the whole business of engine box and positioning a bit easier,it may compromise your ideal position of engine position by an inch or so, but pays off in the long run

That is seriously weird advice! A custom made prop is available from any number of suppliers within a couple days, and for about £200. The one in my Avenger was all new, and cost £170. One for this project will only really need the front part from the gearbox, and it uses common parts.
I'd MUCH rather have a custom prop than compromise the installation. And just getting the engine in will be hard enough without limiting any other options.

[chrisgixer]

lol great project!

 looks like my engine hoist is getting another workout then?you are luucky i had a full car on the last trip(came back here on 28th august0,cos i nearly collected it!

 Im absolutley positive standard 3.2 vented rear discs will be ok,as you said engine is defintely lighter and unless your on a track?uprated rear pads will be suffiecient as rears do so little anyway

,bigger pads and calipers on the standard front discs will give you a larger "swept volume" of braking,
 but i would go with Woodys suggestion of ML brakes to be honest,as you have them "in stock" makes sense,

front mounted rack would better but nothing wrong with a rear mounted one if it overcomes multiple agro,s by using it,
dont dismiss electric pumps for the power steering bud. many many race cars use these and they are cheaply available and so small you would not believe it!

as you are going auto,diff will be fine power wise but not sure on ratio?guessing twill be fine but stand to be corrected,
biggest tip i can give you is try to use a standard length prop! as its likely to be the only thing,that would keep the car off the road for any great lengh of time if damaged, also makes (usually) the whole business of engine box and positioning a bit easier,it may compromise your ideal position of engine position by an inch or so, but pays off in the long run

Hi Omegatoy, thankyou. Yes your hoist has been invaluable.
I hope you don't need it back any time soon, the engine has to come out and in a few times yet. There's never enough time, off days, when my back works are few and far between with good weather. Not sure its wise doing this on a drive way but, need must.

Prop shaft will have to be shortened or swapped out. Its a bout 4inches too long. I'd prefer a stronger one too I think. I don't want that slamming around the tunnel if it twists off and brakes.
 If the dif fails, well, I don't think that will take much else with it...?

[chrisgixer]

More pics to follow of the other areas to fit too, which I am happy with so far.

[Omegatoy]

biggest tip i can give you is try to use a standard length prop! as its likely to be the only thing,that would keep the car off the road for any great length of time if damaged, also makes (usually) the whole business of engine box and positioning a bit easier,it may compromise your ideal position of engine position by an inch or so, but pays off in the long run

That is seriously weird advice! A custom made prop is available from any number of suppliers within a couple days, and for about £200. The one in my Avenger was all new, and cost £170. One for this project will only really need the front part from the gearbox, and it uses common parts.
I'd MUCH rather have a custom prop than compromise the installation. And just getting the engine in will be hard enough without limiting any other options.

lost count of the number of engine conversions ive done bud,and every time ive done it this way its paid off,also did it on the mega meega,,can only speak as ive found over the years,agree its now easier to get a prop made than before,but using standard parts for me always pays off,jm2pw

[Nick W]

These are the current problem areas. Pas side bank 2 rear cylinder is fouling the brake lines, and has to have the coil packs fitted yet.
The top pic is a poor shot of the steering rack column input shaft, its very close to the starter motor, and currently needs to move a half inch to the scuttle drain side, which means the engine has to go closer to the scuttle, which means the scuttle needs "adjusting" 

As said earlier the brake lines need to be moved, probably up following the under side of the scuttle, then down to the abs pump which will go up and away from the engine where the pas fluid bottle was, well away from heat and exhaust manifolds.

I'm curious about the thinking behind the box section. Why not just make new mounts welded to the crossmember where they're needed? Some 3mm plate and a little welding and they're done.

Those 'problem areas' are pretty simple; both parts are easily moved. Brake lines don't care where they run, and moving coil packs is common in LS swaps.

Have you fitted the belt driven accessories yet? They take up a surprising amount of space.

And mocking up 'something' for the exhaust manifolds would be next on my list, to see just how difficult they're going to be.

It's looking a bit more doable now.

[chrisgixer]

Wow Nick, easy.

I think the problem areas speak for themselves tbh.

Engine mounts where pre made, as within an inch or two, we didn't know exactly where they would fall. We do now. A starter for 10 plus, I don't have welding facility's here, not do I know how to use them. Yet.
Ironically, I passed up the chance of a proper welder offered by a member here.

[05omegav6]

The box section simply and effectively allows a fair amount of leeway with regard to engine positioning without compromise 

Next time around they could easily be fitted precisely where they belong. The hardest part being determining exactly where they need to be

With regards the brake lines, is there any mileage in colour coding the ends and removing the bits of pipe in the way

[chrisgixer]

Engine level to the strut top mounts


Sump level with side frame rails, or whatever they are called, and clear of tunnel bulk heads either side although I don't know if the drive shaft output is in the right place, how do I check this? Something about 3degrees max?


Should ba able to get the connector rod and selector switch in there


Plenty of room for pas side manifold


Rack line up left and right



Mounts



From the front, everything is above the subframe cross member, except one of the bell housing mounting holes that's unused, you can see to just in front of the wood block on the scissor jack.


Much better position than before.


Anything I've missed? As said I'm unsure how to check the gear box output position relative to the prop centre line.

[chrisgixer]

Oh, another thing, the mounts I have are 70mm deep. If I place a 70mm block of wood to replicate the depth of these on on the box section, with engine on top it sits too high with throttle body and pas bottle rubbing on the bonet under side.

So, unless I can find 40mm odd deep engine mounts, there work to do there. And as said the engine to mount brackets need changing too.

[TheBoy]

Don't allow anything to hang low without protection around it, esp the way you drive.  Been there, learnt by my silly mistake 

[05omegav6]

Have a rummage on www.nolathane.com.au for engine mounts. You can search by size then email pedders for an equivalent

[chrisgixer]

Don't allow anything to hang low without protection around it, esp the way you drive.  Been there, learnt by my silly mistake 

On my car, the cats sit lower than ALL of those pictured. Once I looked I was surprised I haven't hit one of those stupid speed cushions in mine.

[chrisgixer]

Have a rummage on www.nolathane.com.au for engine mounts. You can search by size then email pedders for an equivalent

Interesting, although I don't think poly is best for engine mounts, I'll want as much damping as possible I would have thought...?

[Nick W]

Oh, another thing, the mounts I have are 70mm deep. If I place a 70mm block of wood to replicate the depth of these on on the box section, with engine on top it sits too high with throttle body and pas bottle rubbing on the bonet under side.

So, unless I can find 40mm odd deep engine mounts, there work to do there. And as said the engine to mount brackets need changing too.

Rallydesign have heavy duty rubber mounts in both 35 and 50mm(both stock Ford sizes) for £6 each.
Land rovers use very similar parts, which you can find easily.
Or you could make captive ones using a suspension void bush and some tubing, like on Escort world-cup crossmembers. Although that's unlikely to be necessary on a roadcar.