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[Omegatoy]

So is it chippable?

OH YES !!! and without a Maf There are certain other areas tht can be played with without the Maf pulling it back down!!!

You been buggering with the crude waste gate setup?

Would we do such a thing

I am surprised it didn't throw an over boost fault code from the inlet pressure sensor

We only adjusted the boost by a fraction - just under 0.1bar iirc.  Sadly, this wasn't on mine, which has a MAF

lolol on that day yes but cn tell you it can go a lot more quite happily with no
adverse effects so far!!!!

You bloody hooligan

You measured the boost now then?

yup it now reads 2.60bar and the wife hates it!!!! cos one minute its gently pulling away through the gears as soon as the revs hit 2000 rpm someone is pulling your head into the headrest then it just squashes you into the seat then the wastegate catches up around 4300 rpm
and thats when you change gear!! however the downside is out here there are many cambered hairpin turns which you cant pull away from without spinning the wheels no matter how hard you try so a lot of spain thinks im a hooligan!! mind you a lot of them always get in the way too!!!!

[TheBoy]

So is it chippable?

OH YES !!! and without a Maf There are certain other areas tht can be played with without the Maf pulling it back down!!!

You been buggering with the crude waste gate setup?

Would we do such a thing

I am surprised it didn't throw an over boost fault code from the inlet pressure sensor

We only adjusted the boost by a fraction - just under 0.1bar iirc.  Sadly, this wasn't on mine, which has a MAF

lolol on that day yes but cn tell you it can go a lot more quite happily with no
adverse effects so far!!!!

You bloody hooligan

You measured the boost now then?

yup it now reads 2.60bar and the wife hates it!!!! cos one minute its gently pulling away through the gears as soon as the revs hit 2000 rpm someone is pulling your head into the headrest then it just squashes you into the seat then the wastegate catches up around 4300 rpm
and thats when you change gear!! however the downside is out here there are many cambered hairpin turns which you cant pull away from without spinning the wheels no matter how hard you try so a lot of spain thinks im a hooligan!! mind you a lot of them always get in the way too!!!!

2.6

[markey mark]

2.60 bar bloody hell G!!!!! thats nearly 35psi are you mad ?

[platty]

yup it now reads 2.60bar

Out of interest, what is the standard boost level?

[markey mark]

nowere near that platty !! G's car must be pushing 250ish bhp !!!

[TheBoy]

yup it now reads 2.60bar

Out of interest, what is the standard boost level?

Around 2bar

[platty]

yup it now reads 2.60bar

Out of interest, what is the standard boost level?

Around 2bar

That is a fair old difference then!  

[markey mark]

yup it now reads 2.60bar

Out of interest, what is the standard boost level?

Around 2bar

ohh didnt think they was that high jaime

[Omegatoy]

yeh its a fair bit i must admit but bear in mind i dont have to use the car every day,  and the 2.60 is peak boost before the wastegate cuts it, it sure did make the turbo hose expand tho!!!  so this is now covered in large zipties to limit the amount it can expand  solid pipes would be better but thats impossible although i might try silcon if i can find a company that will do them anyone know any good ones???

[Cheshley]

Where do I find the ECU's to find out which one I've got?

Open up the bonnet, and on the right hand side (as you look into the engine bay), behind the battery is a triangular shaped plastic fuse box. Open this up and the ECU is on its side in there (silver), pull it upwards and it slides out so that you can see the serial number (X XXX XXX XXX)

If you want to check if it is socketed or not, then you will have to unplug it, bend back the metal tabs and open it up full (T8 & T20 Torx reqd.)

Hope that helps  

Meanwhile, back at the plot . . . . . . . . . . . .  

I have got the ECU out of the car and the first thing I noticed was the number ending in 427 on the back, being the optimist I am I presume this is the number peeps have been talking about....?



I have then bent the metal tabs back (and sliced my hand open in the process) and having removed all the Torx heads I have removed the boards and carefully opened them up as described.  The first thing I notice is that the 2 centre chips in the run of 4 across the top of the board are different from the pic Platty posted earlier but from reading posts an I right in thinking that it's the chip on the left of the 2 below these that I am interested in . . . . . . ?



Also, previous posts mention a 10 digit code on this chip.  If this chip is the right one, the code printed on it takes the format XX XXX XX XXXX XXXXX.X    If this is the wrong chip then it won't matter, but if it is this one, how come I've got a much longer code?  

It's all good fun aint it    

[Marks DTM Calib]

No, its one of the EPROM devices just behind, 28
pin DIL's (Dual In Line) with the stickers on.

Sadly, they need un-soldering and a socket fitting

[Cheshley]

No, its one of the EPROM devices just behind, 28
pin DIL's (Dual In Line) with the stickers on.

Sadly, they need un-soldering and a socket fitting

Bugger.  It's about right that if there's two ways of doing something, mine will be the more complicated!!!!!    Soldering ECU boards isn't something that I'll be attempting, any volunteers/recommendations?   :-?  

I suppose it would make sense to have the new chip available so it can all be put back together at the same time, any chance of someone putting me in touch with Platty's chip provider?  (any idea if the provider will be able to do the socket soldering?)  :-/

[Marks DTM Calib]

No, its one of the EPROM devices just behind, 28
pin DIL's (Dual In Line) with the stickers on.

Sadly, they need un-soldering and a socket fitting

Bugger.  It's about right that if there's two ways of doing something, mine will be the more complicated!!!!!    Soldering ECU boards isn't something that I'll be attempting, any volunteers/recommendations?   :-?  

I suppose it would make sense to have the new chip available so it can all be put back together at the same time, any chance of someone putting me in touch with Platty's chip provider?  (any idea if the provider will be able to do the socket soldering?)  :-/

If you cna get the ECU to me, I can fit a socket for you.

[platty]

Also, previous posts mention a 10 digit code on this chip.  If this chip is the right one, the code printed on it takes the format XX XXX XX XXXX XXXXX.X    If this is the wrong chip then it won't matter, but if it is this one, how come I've got a much longer code?

The 10 digit number referred to is the ECU number - shown in your first pic as 0 281 001 427. Mine was a 427 too, but had the sockets in already.
I would take Mark up on his offer and get a socket put in. I will pm you with the details of the chip provider so you can speak with him about getting hold of one  

As said already the chip to be replaced is the left hand side one of the 2 x longer chips in between the 2 x "SIEMENS" chips. You can see the above ECU number on the chip label.

[MickAP]

Also, previous posts mention a 10 digit code on this chip.  If this chip is the right one, the code printed on it takes the format XX XXX XX XXXX XXXXX.X    If this is the wrong chip then it won't matter, but if it is this one, how come I've got a much longer code?

The 10 digit number referred to is the ECU number - shown in your first pic as 0 281 001 427. Mine was a 427 too, but had the sockets in already.
I would take Mark up on his offer and get a socket put in. I will pm you with the details of the chip provider so you can speak with him about getting hold of one  

As said already the chip to be replaced is the left hand side one of the 2 x longer chips in between the 2 x "SIEMENS" chips. You can see the above ECU number on the chip label.

Had my ECU out at the weekend and mine is the same as the one above, soldered. Would be interested in this doing this to mine as well, not far from you either.

Mick