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[Vmax]

Hello all, Just back from a local Vaux specialist. My car has been stalling when stopping at light or around slow corners. Cam sensor replaced genuine Vaux. Kevin Wood plugged his tech2 in a couple of days ago, got code 19 again, and cleaned the ICV, changed the vac pipes around on the reservoir and adjusted the thottles. Still no better. Vauk specialist says torque converter  or, as the car had a rear ender last year, fuel sender? Any ideas folks as this is realy getting to be a real pain!! Next step I guess take it to Vaux ??
Ta, Dave. 

[CBH]

Just fixed a problem like this on my 2.5 V6 by fitting a new ICV.
If the revs drop below 1000 rpm the engine just stopped,there were no codes but it appears the ICV was staying shut.
cbh

[Jimbob]

Hello all, Just back from a local Vaux specialist. My car has been stalling when stopping at light or around slow corners. Cam sensor replaced genuine Vaux. Kevin Wood plugged his tech2 in a couple of days ago, got code 19 again, and cleaned the ICV, changed the vac pipes around on the reservoir and adjusted the thottles. Still no better. Vauk specialist says torque converter  or, as the car had a rear ender last year, fuel sender? Any ideas folks as this is realy getting to be a real pain!! Next step I guess take it to Vaux ??
Ta, Dave. 

erm 19 is CRANK not CAM sensor?

typo?  or have you replaced the wrong one?

[Vmax]

Yup typo thanks - crank sensor changed 

[Vmax]

Just fixed a problem like this on my 2.5 V6 by fitting a new ICV.
If the revs drop below 1000 rpm the engine just stopped,there were no codes but it appears the ICV was staying shut.
cbh
Thanks, ICV is operating correctly...

[Kevin Wood]

Crank sensor was replaced. 

Throttle stop had been wound open, affecting idle control. Perhaps someone has been here before and tried to fix it?

ICV, EGR appear fine. It doesn't start as "crisply" as it should, IMHO. Needs 2 attempts some times. And it's still throwing 19s. My suspicion is that the new crank sensor is also kaputt but has anyone got any alternative suggestions?

Kevin

[Vmax]

Just found this, whilst poking about at the rear of the plennum. A rusty screw stuck in arubber pipe, any ideas folks?

[feeutfo]

yes that pipe should fit into a rubber elbow a beleive. Looks like its hanging down in the back ground of the pic. Or one very like it anyway. But that screw is wrong, whatever.

[MutantCav]

Yep thats certainly wrong lol Looks like vac pipe...either the one thats meant to go into the back of the plenum (rear multiram??) or that fits into the brake servo pipe??

[Kevin Wood]

The couple of "T" pieces by the brake servo were as they should be. Checked them when we Tech 2'd it. Multirams were working OK after we'd corrected incorrect plumbing of the vacuum reservoir.

Whereabouts is that T piece? can you follow the pipes to see where they go? Maybe it's the heater vacuum supply. Is the claimate behaving itself?

Kevin

[Vmax]

Thanks Kevin, I'll have a look later. Just tried climate, I don't use it very often, and it blows cold until I put it on High setting - it then blows hot??  :-? I think I will go and find a large skip!! 

[Vmax]

 :-/ Car is now un-driveable. I m going to have a proper look at the weekend. I don't realy know what I'm looking for so - Any last minute ideas folks? Could it be MAF duff ?  :-/ 

[feeutfo]

:-/ Car is now un-driveable. I m going to have a proper look at the weekend. I don't realy know what I'm looking for so - Any last minute ideas folks? Could it be MAF duff ?  :-/ 

Possible, do you have a maf code via paper clip test?
Try unplugging it? But as im sure TB tell you, mafs rarely fail on early v engines. If you have no codes would suspect tick over valve but Kevin has already tried cleaning that. Although my old car took several cleans before it settled down. Make sure the valve is clear and not chipped with a screw driver, people like to see if it moves and stick something in there causing damage. Like i did once, shhhh!

A theory! If the tick over valve was removed and the plenum hole plugged to be air tight. Then adjust(if possible) the throttle/cable to give tick over and the car stayed running enough to keep it from stalling, would that prove or dis prove the icv as faulty, or not? I realise that bodgieing the throttle is a no no, but would it help diagnose icv?Discuss....?
Having said that if your still getting 19 then would still suggest crank sensor. Is the plug/wiring/connection good a the plenum end? Switch cleaner?......another sensor?

 Havent re read the whole post so if this is covering old ground please ignore.

Edited for spelling and to say, if the icv was removed but still electricaly connected you may be able to see it moving, may help? Obviously plug the hole and make sure the plug does not get sucked in and eaten by the engine, that would be bad.

[Vmax]

Thanks Chris, I think I will change the crank sensor again! and try and see where that rubber pipe, with the screw in it, is supposed to be plumbed. ICV is spottless and moving freely.... :-/

[Kevin Wood]

Live data from the MAF looked OK when we had the Tech 2 on it.

I would try another crank sensor, personally. It's still throwing code 19s which is a sure indication that the crank sensor is not happy.

Kevin