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[Abiton]

Presumably the lambda reading was actually 1.026, not 1.26?

[Webby the Bear]

Presumably the lambda reading was actually 1.026, not 1.26?

my bad, good spot.

yes, 1.026 

[Abiton]

Thought it must be that, as 1.26 would be a major fail.

What it tells you is that your oxygen sensors are succeeding in keeping the mixture pretty close to the stoichiometric point (lambda=1). 

[Webby the Bear]

Thought it must be that, as 1.26 would be a major fail.

What it tells you is that your oxygen sensors are succeeding in keeping the mixture pretty close to the stoichiometric point (lambda=1).

Excellent!!! Diagnosis vol 1 complete 

Just out of interest is 0.026 above stoichiometric indicating slightly lean or slightly rich?

[Abiton]

Lean, I think.

[Webby the Bear]

Lean, I think.

Interesting - cheers mate 

[Marks DTM Calib]

What state is the exhaust in?

[Webby the Bear]

What state is the exhaust in?

The only input I can give you Mark is that it passed the MOT in October with no exhaust advisories (only advisory was a corroded fuel line)

[Webby the Bear]

When i say corroded i mean slight corrosion noted with no leaks 

[Marks DTM Calib]

I am wondering if some of the baffles have collapsed and are restricting the flow a bit. Also what state is the dis pack in?

[Webby the Bear]

I am wondering if some of the baffles have collapsed and are restricting the flow a bit. Also what state is the dis pack in?

Sadly mate I don't know much about exhausts. Where are baffles fitted? The only thing I know from schooling is that baffles are used to ''deflect'' or alter the flow directtion of a substance (e.g. air or fuel)....where would they be fitted. If it helps there's no exhaust rattle or anything like that.

Dispac i havent had out. i can say though that since martin cleaned my EGR there's no lack of power at all.

[cem_devecioglu]

I take the opposite view. .1.Original parts will be the best quality parts your car ever sees, so if they are working, leave them be. 2.All pattern parts and some OEM ones are inferior, and second hand they will have as much wear as your current parts, give or take a little.

If you can prove them to be faulty, then, fair enough, replace them, but I wouldn't go changing things just one the supposition that they might make a difference. At best you'll only waste time and money, worst case you'll end up creating a load of new problems for yourself.

Just MHO.

1.yep.. agreed
2.if you purchase original GM or Opel/VX parts  there wont be any problem as they are under warranty..
 
and if we are talking about a 13+ year old car, I am afraid I disagree..

[Webby the Bear]

I take the opposite view. .1.Original parts will be the best quality parts your car ever sees, so if they are working, leave them be. 2.All pattern parts and some OEM ones are inferior, and second hand they will have as much wear as your current parts, give or take a little.

If you can prove them to be faulty, then, fair enough, replace them, but I wouldn't go changing things just one the supposition that they might make a difference. At best you'll only waste time and money, worst case you'll end up creating a load of new problems for yourself.

Just MHO.

1.yep.. agreed
2.if you purchase original GM or Opel/VX parts  there wont be any problem as they are under warranty..
 
and if we are talking about a 13+ year old car, I am afraid I disagree..

I think if you can test the part and it's second hand and it's good I dont see a problen but I see where youre both coming from.

as an example though i got a quote (before i found ralfs maf) for a maf fromvauxhall..... £196  theres whole omegas going for less! lol

used and tested is the way forward i reckon

[Webby the Bear]

...even its just for testing purposes i should have added 

[Webby the Bear]

Me again guys, sorry not bumping... I just keep coming up with queries. but your help is much appreciated

When you remove injectors (say for superboom testing or whatever its called lol) do you have to replace what appear to be two 'o' rings at the nozzle and middle?