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[Nick W]

If using drop box you have to modify the final part of the link and change ?dl=0 to ?raw=1

I know. And did so.

No you didn't, I edited it  (you changed the =0 to =1 but the ?dl was not changed to ?raw) 

The quote STEMO made is as per the original post (if you quote it you can see the original text)

Fair enough, but that's exactly how I've posted every other picture here and on other sites. Considering that the links are pasted direct from Dropbox's copy link they shouldn't need to be altered at all

[Marks DTM Calib]

If using drop box you have to modify the final part of the link and change ?dl=0 to ?raw=1

I know. And did so.

No you didn't, I edited it  (you changed the =0 to =1 but the ?dl was not changed to ?raw) 

The quote STEMO made is as per the original post (if you quote it you can see the original text)

Fair enough, but that's exactly how I've posted every other picture here and on other sites. Considering that the links are pasted direct from Dropbox's copy link they shouldn't need to be altered at all

Its a known quirk of dropbox 

I have edited quite a few posts for this

[Nick W]

A quirk. Where's my bullshit dictionary?


Ah yes,


 Quirk -  a fault or flaw that annoys the shit out of anyone who expects stuff to work as advertised.

[STEMO]

If using drop box you have to modify the final part of the link and change ?dl=0 to ?raw=1

I know. And did so.

No you didn't, I edited it  (you changed the =0 to =1 but the ?dl was not changed to ?raw) 

The quote STEMO made is as per the original post (if you quote it you can see the original text)

Fair enough, but that's exactly how I've posted every other picture here and on other sites. Considering that the links are pasted direct from Dropbox's copy link they shouldn't need to be altered at all

I've never been able to see your pics, Nick, just a small, square box.

[Nick W]

I'm sick of looking at this poorly done repair:





I would have cut the panel considerably smaller, and not welded it as close to the bodyline. Which would have meant less distortion to sort with filler and sanding:





Two coats of Green Ti filler-primer applied with a roller









I've since flatted this down to 600grit, and it's ready for colour. Which I'll do over the weekend when I've bought it.

[Nick W]

Today's little job was to paint the Metro.


So I removed the rear window, threw some bodymask over the whole car, cut out the quarter panel and taped the edges down:





about 5 minutes of actual painting and I had this:





I also painted the replacement NSF wing.


It's come out OK, hopefully there's enough paint to polish out the defects. But refitting the window and wing is the priority; I'll do that when I get home from ringing tomorrow

[henryd]

Today's little job was to paint the Metro.


So I removed the rear window, threw some bodymask over the whole car, cut out the quarter panel and taped the edges down:





about 5 minutes of actual painting and I had this:





I also painted the replacement NSF wing.


It's come out OK, hopefully there's enough paint to polish out the defects. But refitting the window and wing is the priority; I'll do that when I get home from ringing tomorrow

Filler work is looking good Nick,not seeing many ripples  in that 

[Nick W]

Filler work is looking good Nick,not seeing many ripples  in that 

There's still some distortion noticeable along the bodyline. I decided not to apply another coat of filler primer, which is a mistake. Still, it looks a lot better than when I bought it

[Nick W]

I've got to remove the rubbing strip from the door, but this looks a lot better:





I did jetwash the whole car, which is probably the first time it's been cleaned in year, and apply some gel to all of the black plastics. And I've the sill covers from a Rover 100 that makes that area look a lot more finished.

[Doctor Gollum]

Very nice job

[aaronjb]

I think my old Metro might have been the same colour.. sadly mine also came with the 1.4L naturally aspirated Diseasel engine

[Nick W]

It's Ian's garage actually, but we've been busy with my 3.0l manual and his MGB:





Bulkhead is stock.


engine mounts made and installed:





the gearbox mount is stock Omega with two drilled holes into the MGB crossmember, no further work required


We've got to make exhaust manifolds, which will be MGB RV8 style, down through the inner wings. A small diameter alternator where the normal belt tensioner should fit, with an idler pulley on the other side where the PAS pump was should drive it all - the water pump being driven off the back of the belt is a nuisance.


MGB RV8 radiator, and a new water transfer pipe.


We need complete bagpipes and throttle body before we go much further, and a gearlever for the manual gearbox. I'll be making an adapter to fir a double UJ propshaft and slider joint.


It will get a Discovery fuel pump and return fitted to a new MGB fuel tank.

[Doctor Gollum]

Nice looking job

Refreshing to see an MG that isn't Russet/Red/BRG

[dave the builder]

Wow
what will you be doing for an ECU  using the Omega brain or "aftermarket" 

[Nick W]

Wow
what will you be doing for an ECU  using the Omega brain or "aftermarket"

Completely stock except for a K&N air filter and no cats. And that's only because there isn't room for the filter box, stock manifolds or downpipes.


The idea is that it gives more power than any stock Rover that are now extremely expensive to buy, rebuild(they're always tired) and fit. So far, this install has cost about £15 for the mount materials, and £50 for a Vectra sump. Plus the £250 he paid me for the engine and gearbox The exhausts are going to be costly, but they are for a Rover too - we'll probably use MGB V8 systems to save time and effort. Rovers also require an expensive diff change, but stock MGB diff and wheel diameter is very close to stock Omega gearing. Ian reckons that selling the original running gear will cover about half the cost of installing the V6.