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[RossMk2]

Is that from the paperclip method, or have you got a reader / resetter yet?

Paperclip

[Jimbob]

So possible an old code  :-?

youve the old style connector havent you?

[RossMk2]

How do again, happy new year to everyone! So i have ordered a little unit as per Jimbob's referal so that i can read data through the laptop of what the car is doing, should be here next few days.

Although i know what im looking at with fault codes, i wont have a clue as to what readings look suspect from the live data would anyone mind who does know what they are looking at if i were to post a screen shot and you tell me what might need checking?

Or you might even know what data would contribute to:

• As said earlier in the thread, the fact that when the car 'learns' what everythings up to the car starts to run like tripe, but a quick reset and it runs better again.

• Also not idling when cold (Did have the grub screw wound in on TB to also hide low tick over, have pulled it back out now so its doing it all itself. Have tried various ICV's & AFM's and dont think its that. Brand new CTS also.

[Jimbob]

That tool has the ability to export a spreadsheet of all the live data.

Post those results here, pref with the car cold, and separately at running temp, and we can see if anything looks amiss

[tigers_gonads]

It doesn't clear fault codes on the Omega ECUs IME.

It might well cause the block learning data to return to defaults which means the fuel trims and ICV idle settings will be set to factory defaults so it might be a bit lumpy for a few miles until it has built this information again.

What "significant difference" have you noticed?

Kevin

The exact opposite Kevin, it runs like a dream again! The car over time starts to run like tripe, it gradually gets worse week after week then i unplug the battery & ecu, plug them back in and the car is as good as new!
I just wanted to know exactly what it was that what im doing might be affecting so that i can find out whats at fault when its 'learnt' driving information.

changed o2 sensors ?

might be pishing in the wind here but i had the same problem after my engine change 

cured by swaping the o2 sensor plugs round 

it turned out that after the battery was disconected and the ecu went back too default settings, it ran ok untill the ecu tried too learn its own values.
problem was that it was takeing its readings from one bank and trying to adjust the other !!!!
got too the point where the running got worse and worse then it threw up a code and went into limp mode.  this took anyware from 10 miles too 50 miles.

if you try it, DON'T disconect the battery first or you will go back too square 1 

[RossMk2]

Jimbob:

I can never put an exact time in miles as to how long it takes for the thing to play up but would you need both hot and cold readings from when its refreshed and when its playing up?

Edit: Oh and i really would struggle to get a reading from cold as im pretty sure it would cut out suppose if kept me foot on gas for 1min it might just hold up

changed o2 sensors ?

might be pishing in the wind here but i had the same problem after my engine change 

cured by swaping the o2 sensor plugs round 

it turned out that after the battery was disconected and the ecu went back too default settings, it ran ok untill the ecu tried too learn its own values.
problem was that it was takeing its readings from one bank and trying to adjust the other !!!!
got too the point where the running got worse and worse then it threw up a code and went into limp mode.  this took anyware from 10 miles too 50 miles.

if you try it, DON'T disconect the battery first or you will go back too square 1 

o2 sensors did get changed, around a year ago maybe? But im pretty sure the same plug was used

So you just swapped the sensors around and it fixed the problem? The sensor themselves or the plugs to which they were plugged into? Then remove battery? Sorry if i sound think but can you go into a little mroe detail.... Sorry

[Jimbob]

was thinking put hot and cold readings up as soon as you can, then as soon as its playing up, get another set of readings.

with a bit of luck something will stand out like a sore thumb 

[RossMk2]

Hopefully, we will see! Interested in the o2 sensor trick mind

[tigers_gonads]

Hopefully, we will see! Interested in the o2 sensor trick mind

yeh, i swapped a 2.5 for a 3 ltr 

got allsorts of wierd fault codes coming up 

all lambda sensor related ( low / high / open circuit and many more ) 
every time i did something to the chuffin engine, i disconected the battery. replaced various bits and cut out and replaced various looms 

turned out that all that, by disconecting the battery, the ecu went into default mode  ( runs ok  )   but as it starts to learn, it gets worse ( bad idleing / hunting / no power under load ) 

swapped them round and it runs ok now 
but don't disconecct the battery or you start from scratch 

[I_want_an_Omega]

I did an ECU swap (with Immobiliser & key chips) recently from a donor car that was last used in July. It started 1st time but also had the stored codes from the old vehicle. These were reset using "My Naff Code Reader" and I had a nice fresh start.

So, I'm with the block thingy being reset and know for a fact that the stored codes do get stored even after a period of 5 months without power.

HTH ......... Rob

[Kevin Wood]

I did an ECU swap (with Immobiliser & key chips) recently from a donor car that was last used in July. It started 1st time but also had the stored codes from the old vehicle. These were reset using "My Naff Code Reader" and I had a nice fresh start.

So, I'm with the block thingy being reset and know for a fact that the stored codes do get stored even after a period of 5 months without power.

HTH ......... Rob

Codes do get stored indefinitely. Block learn data gets reset when the ECU loses power.

Kevin

[RossMk2]

Hopefully, we will see! Interested in the o2 sensor trick mind

yeh, i swapped a 2.5 for a 3 ltr 

got allsorts of wierd fault codes coming up 

all lambda sensor related ( low / high / open circuit and many more ) 
every time i did something to the chuffin engine, i disconected the battery. replaced various bits and cut out and replaced various looms 

turned out that all that, by disconecting the battery, the ecu went into default mode  ( runs ok  )   but as it starts to learn, it gets worse ( bad idleing / hunting / no power under load ) 

swapped them round and it runs ok now 
but don't disconecct the battery or you start from scratch 

Ok but you didnt state, did you just change which sensor is in which plug or did you moves the sensors also? I cant see where mine would have been connected up incorrectly mind

[Jimbob]

You are that close at hopefully getting some useful readings...

imho you would be best not tinkering until then, and possibly introducing other gremlins.

[RossMk2]

You are that close at hopefully getting some useful readings...

imho you would be best not tinkering until then, and possibly introducing other gremlins.

Yes mate thats a good point! Car has been running for a few miles now since last reset, so hopefully i can get the readings hot/cold from it running now and then straight after a reset.

[tigers_gonads]

just swap the sensor 1 and 2 plugs round

on the omega, the loom for both sensors comes down and then splits into two equal lenths in a Y shape.   it then splits over the top of the gearbox.
i'm presuming your loom is similar ??

its pish easy too get the 2 the wrong way round