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[tunnie]

in summer time when the miggy had the heads re-built, there was some cars having this problem.. I saw a man who welds some pieces and then took them out

Hummm thats an idea, there is enough left to weld something on, maybe 4" bar or something, that would work when cats were off the car.

Maybe sometime a lot smaller could be welded on, to get some grip on it. Trouble is, would the weld hold any more than the stud?

Find a nut that will slip over the stud and then weld it on. Give it a good soak in plus gas and have another go. The heat generated when welding will help unsieze the thread.

Cheers Kevin, I'll have to borrow fatties welder, might need to practice on something first!

[Kevin Wood]

Something like this?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-hss-cobalt-drill-bit-set-15pcs/95497

Could be. Lot of money to get a couple of studs out, though.

The downside is that they are brittle, and as hard as nails if you do break bit off inside.

I would try the welding trick first, followed by some decent quality HSS bits.

[cem_devecioglu]

in summer time when the miggy had the heads re-built, there was some cars having this problem.. I saw a man who welds some pieces and then took them out

Hummm thats an idea, there is enough left to weld something on, maybe 4" bar or something, that would work when cats were off the car.

Maybe sometime a lot smaller could be welded on, to get some grip on it. Trouble is, would the weld hold any more than the stud?

depending on the weld type it may/must.. all I know is argon welding is good 

[cem_devecioglu]

in summer time when the miggy had the heads re-built, there was some cars having this problem.. I saw a man who welds some pieces and then took them out

Hummm thats an idea, there is enough left to weld something on, maybe 4" bar or something, that would work when cats were off the car.

Maybe sometime a lot smaller could be welded on, to get some grip on it. Trouble is, would the weld hold any more than the stud?

depending on the weld type it may/must.. all I know is argon welding is good 

Tunnie, when you weld it try to cool it quickly with clean engine oil so iron structure will have less carbon inside.. (from theory)

[cem_devecioglu]

in summer time when the miggy had the heads re-built, there was some cars having this problem.. I saw a man who welds some pieces and then took them out

Hummm thats an idea, there is enough left to weld something on, maybe 4" bar or something, that would work when cats were off the car.

Maybe sometime a lot smaller could be welded on, to get some grip on it. Trouble is, would the weld hold any more than the stud?

depending on the weld type it may/must.. all I know is argon welding is good 

hmmm , its TIG (argon) welding I know someone from OOF who bought it recently

[Kevin Wood]

Tunnie, when you weld it try to cool it quickly with clean engine oil so iron structure will have less carbon inside.. (from theory)

Yep. A squirt of plus gas is a good plan, as it will both cool and be drawn into the thread as it contracts too. Or it'll catch fire and singe your eyebrows.

[tunnie]

Something like this?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-hss-cobalt-drill-bit-set-15pcs/95497

Could be. Lot of money to get a couple of studs out, though.

The downside is that they are brittle, and as hard as nails if you do break bit off inside.

I would try the welding trick first, followed by some decent quality HSS bits.

Exactly problem had before, i'd like to try it. But I've only welded once by direction of the master. Is it that hard to weld a bolt on? 

Guess you put bolt flush with the sheared part & weld across it? 

Also no idea what welder TB has 

[cem_devecioglu]

Tunnie, when you weld it try to cool it quickly with clean engine oil so iron structure will have less carbon inside.. (from theory)

Yep. A squirt of plus gas is a good plan, as it will both cool and be drawn into the thread as it contracts too. Or it'll catch fire and singe your eyebrows.

Kevin , oil quenching is a frequently used method for getting stronger steel.. (probably you know) .. if you let it cool slowly , quality of steel/iron reduces..

[aaronjb]

Tunnie, when you weld it try to cool it quickly with clean engine oil so iron structure will have less carbon inside.. (from theory)

Yep. A squirt of plus gas is a good plan, as it will both cool and be drawn into the thread as it contracts too. Or it'll catch fire and singe your eyebrows.

I managed to set fire to the aux belt pulley on the Nissan not once but three times like that..  All the oil & plusgas soaked into the cracked rubber, and every time I went near it with the torch .. whoomf!

Speaking of hardened drill bits - whatever you do, don't snap one or a stud extractor off in the remains of the stud.. I did that once; ended up getting it spark eroded (thankfully that didn't cost me anything )

[tunnie]

Anyone got any burners? This looks to do job nicely!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYSZncjnzVs

[tunnie]

As I don't actually have a burner, would this method work? 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66ATKL4G04M

[MaxV6]

expensive good quality bits are a good bet, not so small they snap easily....  nothing less than 5 mm  IMHO.
.


flatten off the end with a grinder, then a bloody good hit with a hardened centre punch, and a lump hammer, to stop the bot wandering as you get started...     then slow-ish drilling, lubricating the drill bit to cool it as you go....   once you're in a fair distance, it's time to decide whther to drill out with a larger bit, or try an extractor bit....    i usually go with the extractor,  judging by hand if the torque is likely to snap it...    not broken one in years....    but have chickened out several times and reverted to the drill out larger route.... 

if access is a problem i have a half decent cordless right-angle drill you're welcome to borrow...   much less room needed to get in with...   although harder to keep as solid and steady ...

I have a set of larger steel bits....   designed for drilling structural steel work, but i think the smallest i have is about 8mm,  maybe 10...   which is almost certainly too big.

(a part of my work occasionally includes structural steel in studio builds, and hanging stuff off it , or bolting through it)

weird really....  i have almost every tool imaginable for building and DIY stuff, and Luthiery and electronics....   but bugger all for doing the car....

[tunnie]

expensive good quality bits are a good bet, not so small they snap easily....  nothing less than 5 mm  IMHO.
.


flatten off the end with a grinder, then a bloody good hit with a hardened centre punch, and a lump hammer, to stop the bot wandering as you get started...     then slow-ish drilling, lubricating the drill bit to cool it as you go....   once you're in a fair distance, it's time to decide whther to drill out with a larger bit, or try an extractor bit....    i usually go with the extractor,  judging by hand if the torque is likely to snap it...    not broken one in years....    but have chickened out several times and reverted to the drill out larger route.... 

if access is a problem i have a half decent cordless right-angle drill you're welcome to borrow...   much less room needed to get in with...   although harder to keep as solid and steady ...

I have a set of larger steel bits....   designed for drilling structural steel work, but i think the smallest i have is about 8mm,  maybe 10...   which is almost certainly too big.

(a part of my work occasionally includes structural steel in studio builds, and hanging stuff off it , or bolting through it)

weird really....  i have almost every tool imaginable for building and DIY stuff, and Luthiery and electronics....   but bugger all for doing the car....

Thanks for really kind offer Max 

I have one of these: http://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-8281dwpe-14-4v-1-3ah-ni-cd-cordless-combi-drill/39849

Which should give me access, I'm very tempted to try welding route first. Weld a nut on, after the stud has been soaked in plus gas, pop a spanner on it & then just cross my fingers it breaks the seal!

Shame on those sizes, few mm smaller would have been perfect. I've done drilling & centre punch route before, its not nice 

[cem_devecioglu]

ok.. I have seen many cases that those evil things dont come out..  if I were you before welding , I would use penetrating oil , wait few hours, than tap with hammer many times but not that hard (slowly and be careful not to shorten it if necessary use some small diameter metal) not to destroy whats left.. rust is not a strong material and will easily get loose.. 

[cem_devecioglu]

and then weld a t shape metal and slowly the t-edges hammer it..