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[aaronjb]

I presume Tunnie is planning on using a roller extractor (as the one I linked to) - which is incapable of leaving anything stuck in the stud

Though I've tried (and failed) to use one of those reverse threaded extractors, the kind of which you speak, and done precisely that - ended up with the sheared off hardened extractor wedged in the remains of the bolt. Expensive mistake..

[tunnie]

I'm a tad confused, an extractor, is what I thought to be like a "magic socket" - Something that will dig into the bolt, it will wreck the end of the stud its on, but that does not matter? 

Use heat/oils to help break seal, then magic socket will dig in and grip as there is not head to the bolt any more.

You saying the extractor would break? Set I have on their way is a proper set 

[aaronjb]

There are two kinds of extractors for studs;

One is like a big socket and has a set of eccentric rollers inside that tighten on the stud as you apply torque. You can break them (I have done!) but all that happens is the little eccentric rollers fall out and you need to get a new one..

The other is like a reverse threaded screw, you drill a pilot hole in the stud and then screw the extractor in, the idea being that as you screw it in tighter it starts to unscrew the stud/bolt.

Type 1 is the top, here (bottom is a bolt remover - those are great, too): http://www.uktools.com/images/cats/stud-extractors.jpg

Type 2 is this: http://peugeot.mainspot.net/tips/tools_02.jpg

[tunnie]

Ahhh that explains it. Cheers 

Type 1 i've used before with success, I also understand that is the type of set on its way to me. 

[aaronjb]

Ditto - the second type is the kind that leads to much pain (when it shears off and your knuckles go flying toward the nearest bit of jagged metal), heartache (when you realise you're now completely screwed) and misery (when you have to pay to have it drilled out by an engineering shop).. 

[Marks DTM Calib]

I can tell you now from bitter experience on this particular problem, your only method that will get them out is drilling.

If you get heat on them, penetrant, extractors etc, you might shift one, or at most two.

Over the years I have tried everything and had to do this to steam locos, Omegas the lot, the only truely foolproof method I have found is spark errosion and you realy dont want to go down that path!

Either way, your going to be drilling. 

[aaronjb]

I know an engineering shop in Poole that does spark erosion at a decent price (see earlier post about pain, heartache and misery..) 

[Gaffers]

There's a place in Aldershot that does it as well but I think you need to define reasonable when it comes to spark errosion 

[tunnie]

I have nightmares of drilling them on fattys MV6, what did not help was when a drill bit snapped. Made drilling even harder 

[albitz]

A couple of hours work with decent drill bits. Get some bits and get on with it Tunnie.

[aaronjb]

There's a place in Aldershot that does it as well but I think you need to define reasonable when it comes to spark errosion 

True.. I think it cost me £50 to get one stud eroded and the other removed, along with a stern warning to "not bother with those ... extractors and just bring it to us next time"

[Marks DTM Calib]

I know an engineering shop in Poole that does spark erosion at a decent price (see earlier post about pain, heartache and misery..) 

I have access to a spark erroded, not a pleasent thing to use and not that quick either!

[Seth]

IME; good quality HSS (or cobalt) drill bits and take your time Tun.

Then re-tap the threads!

[Andy B]

There are two kinds of extractors for studs;
 .....

there is actually a third 

[aaronjb]

There are two kinds of extractors for studs;
 .....

there is actually a third 

I forgot about those  Although they work much the same as 'type 1' with an eccentric roller. Not tried those, though - do they work alright?

(There's another kind, too - looks like a drill chuck that you tighten down onto the stud.. can't imagine they work all that well, though!)