Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[cem_devecioglu]

  I definitely need an edit button

[tunnie]

Thanks Cem 

Think it is way to go after previous experiences 

[Kevin Wood]

As I don't actually have a burner, would this method work? 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66ATKL4G04M

If you've got enough length to get the 2 bolts on then yes, but it doesn't get round the fact that the stud is siezed.  You would still need to get it very hot to loosen it off and even still it might break again. Worth a try, though.

[tunnie]

As I don't actually have a burner, would this method work? 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66ATKL4G04M

If you've got enough length to get the 2 nuts on then yes, but it doesn't get round the fact that the stud is siezed.  You would still need to get it very hot to loosen it off and even still it might break again. Worth a try, though.

Think i could just about get two bolts on there, no method of heating it up though (other than welder) 

Planning on getting some PlusGas and soak it in that overnight before attacking again. Was hoping two fresh nuts on it, would fair better 

[Kevin Wood]

Think i could just about get two bolts on there, no method of heating it up though (other than welder) 

Planning on getting some PlusGas and soak it in that overnight before attacking again. Was hoping two fresh nuts on it, would fair better 

It might do, now that the clamping force is not on the thread (as bolt head has come off)

Why not weld the nuts on? Or get a cheapo gas blowtorch and heat it up? Won't get it glowing like the oxy-acetylene job on that video but it will help.

[tunnie]

Think i could just about get two bolts on there, no method of heating it up though (other than welder) 

Planning on getting some PlusGas and soak it in that overnight before attacking again. Was hoping two fresh nuts on it, would fair better 

It might do, now that the clamping force is not on the thread (as bolt head has come off)

Why not weld the nuts on? Or get a cheapo gas blowtorch and heat it up? Won't get it glowing like the oxy-acetylene job on that video but it will help.

Did come clean off, I also do have some more nuts from exhaust kits that should be same mm and screw straight on 

[MaxV6]

I have one of these: http://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-8281dwpe-14-4v-1-3ah-ni-cd-cordless-combi-drill/39849

Which should give me access, I'm very tempted to try welding route first. Weld a nut on, after the stud has been soaked in plus gas, pop a spanner on it & then just cross my fingers it breaks the seal!

Shame on those sizes, few mm smaller would have been perfect. I've done drilling & centre punch route before, its not nice 

it's this one

http://www.screwfix.com/p/ryobi-cap-1801m-18v-angled-cordless-drill-driver-bare/83073

the battery section rotates to stay out of the way in tight spaces... 



( i have almost the complete set,  jig & circular saws, assorted drills, sanders,  etc etc , and a couple of chargers and a pile of both NiCad and Li-ion ...   very handy )


the weld route is a good one.....  but needs a good weld on the nut ,  or you get pissed off very quickly if A) you manage to weld it to the rest of the engine...   or B) it keeps breaking off.....

[tunnie]

As I have bolts of same thread (i think) it should be just a question of welding around the edge of the bolt *he says confidently 

[MaxV6]

now then, with a tap and die set, you could put a reverse thread on the stub perhaps.....      plus gas it, heat it, then get neanderthal with it ,

[Clouseau]

I still have nightmares about this job. Head was off and on the bench with only one stud to drill out. Never done this before so was being extra careful. However the inevitable happened and the 'eaziout' snapped in the hole. Apparently the hole I drilled out in the stud was too big, so when the eaziout was screwed in it expanded the stud and wedged it hard against the thread. With the amount of torque I was giving it the eaziout eventually snapped:

From this:


So off the head went to the professionals who milled around the broken stud to dig it out, then built up the head with weld before redrilling, tapping and installing a brand new stud. They also gave the head a chemical clean and fitted new stem all seals for me - charged £70.

To this:

[tunnie]

Thanks, luckily for me its the 4 exhaust studs post cat, where the actual exhaust joins.

I've ordered some plug gas, see what it does. Hoping to weld a nut onto the stud.

Maybe then add a little heat to the mix, I think this gas:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/butane-gas-canister-330g/45831

Works with this:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/brass-torch-pencil-flame/80471

But does not actually state that 

[TheBoy]

I have a blowtorch.

I think the cripple has a plan A as well

[albitz]

Probably sounds obvious, but dont forget to make very sure your LPG/petrol lines are well protected from any heat source.

[Andy B]

Thanks, luckily for me its the 4 exhaust studs post cat, where the actual exhaust joins.

I've ordered some plug gas, see what it does. Hoping to weld a nut onto the stud.

Maybe then add a little heat to the mix, I think this gas:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/butane-gas-canister-330g/45831

Works with this:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/brass-torch-pencil-flame/80471

But does not actually state that 

I doubt you'll get enough heat in to achieve anything worth while with that. You need to get the bit where the stud is broken HOT, not just warm - which the butane canister will do. You'd be better off going to ATS/exhaust fast fit place when it's not busy & asking nicely for them to use their oxy/acetylene to heat it up properly

[tunnie]

Thanks, luckily for me its the 4 exhaust studs post cat, where the actual exhaust joins.

I've ordered some plug gas, see what it does. Hoping to weld a nut onto the stud.

Maybe then add a little heat to the mix, I think this gas:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/butane-gas-canister-330g/45831

Works with this:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/brass-torch-pencil-flame/80471

But does not actually state that 

I doubt you'll get enough heat in to achieve anything worth while with that. You need to get the bit where the stud is broken HOT, not just warm - which the butane canister will do. You'd be better off going to ATS/exhaust fast fit place when it's not busy & asking nicely for them to use their oxy/acetylene to heat it up properly

Thanks Andy 

Part of the problem is said car has no MOT or tax or insurance, with the exhaust off I'm going to draw attention to myself, although ATS is only 1/2 mile away.

I'll still need to weld on a nut, so I'll that & plug gas a whirl first.