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[Marks DTM Calib]

For the gearbox tunnel, I would cut and weld rather than beat the shape.

[chrisgixer]

Risk of splitting the metal?


I can't seem to find any info on opels adjustments in that area.

All the other projects seem to be manual.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Given fitting an auto would be an electrical nightmare its no surprise I guess.

A tunnel change should be pretty straightforward, if you were to slit long the lower edge and the bulk head you can then ease the sides out as required to make it wider.

Then make up some steel sections to weld in and close the gap up.

[05omegav6]

Gearbox wiring is simple enough. only need to bypass the TCM

[chrisgixer]

Indeed. The gearbox and engine ecu are one unit. 98(?) cable operated throttle.

The problem is getting the car systems to play ball with it. Mostly the tc/abs ... An ecu from a pfl is ear marked for that. I think?

[TheBoy]

An ecu from a pfl is ear marked for that. I think?

Pre 1998 ECUs are 3 channel (2 fronts and 1 rear), post 1998 are 4 channel (each wheel independent).

Non TC cars (ie, 2.0, 2.2 (petrol and diesel) and 2.5TD) lack TC functionality.

Would this mean you are looking for a post 1998 non TC ABS ECU?

[Marks DTM Calib]

On the gearbox mounts, how much needs removing?

Would it be possible to scollope out the required sectiona dn then weld a formed plate in to maintain the strength?

[chrisgixer]

An ecu from a pfl is ear marked for that. I think?

Pre 1998 ECUs are 3 channel (2 fronts and 1 rear), post 1998 are 4 channel (each wheel independent).

Non TC cars (ie, 2.0, 2.2 (petrol and diesel) and 2.5TD) lack TC functionality.

Would this mean you are looking for a post 1998 non TC ABS ECU?

I'm hoping members here csn answer that one and recommend something, I will want tc and abs working, so whichever is the best option to achieve that really.
Think Kev and yourself where discussing earlier in the thread.
Obviously I have no hope of sorting this out myself. Taxi Al has some good thinking on it too.

Current objective is to get the engine and box in position and see if it viable with the rack in place. I'd that doesn't work, the project will be binned. But it's looking good do far, I just need  a spine that works.



Master, I hope to have some better pics of the exact position by the end of the day. But the way it's sitting now, the valve body does actually fit between those two bulk heads, although there are multimeters to spare, and the whole lot needs moving rearwards about two inches.

[chrisgixer]

Poxy crApple predictive text

Needless to say I'm on the mobile, in the garage, resting. Few...

[aaronjb]

Are you absolutely set on having the 'original' GM traction control, Chris? If not then there are aftermarket solutions that are (IMHO) much better anyway - RaceLogic have a very nice one, for example..

[05omegav6]

Pages 65-73 of the wiring guide cover most of the questions, the Camaro wiring being pretty straight forward

Does include wiring for the cooling fans, diagnostics and gearbox connections.

Email coming regarding brakes

How have you gotten on today? Gearbox mount helping or not?

[chrisgixer]

Are you absolutely set on having the 'original' GM traction control, Chris? If not then there are aftermarket solutions that are (IMHO) much better anyway - RaceLogic have a very nice one, for example..

Cost?
If ahem, "we" can get it working with a pfl tcm of some sort that has to be cheaper? Above all I want to keep the standard interior and dash so it all looks oe. There will be no "spaco bob" chavi extra pods or gizmos stick on the dash or A pillar etc. if that's part of it?

If the Gm tcm/abs won't play then other options will have to be considered though. So maybe.

[chrisgixer]

Pages 65-73 of the wiring guide cover most of the questions, the Camaro wiring being pretty straight forward

Does include wiring for the cooling fans, diagnostics and gearbox connections.

Email coming regarding brakes

How have you gotten on today? Gearbox mount helping or not?

Mmmm yeah your talking that funny electrickary language again

Good progress today, oe subframe and suspension removed, alternative sub frame fitted with new mount positions thanks to 2woody.

Some proper measuring

Pics to follow but the valve body to transmission tunnel looks resolved, but the scuttle drain is most likely in the way. Which is a much better option for "sammy" adjustment. brake lines will have to be re routed, but the abs pump has to be moved anyway.

As said, pics to follow. I'm off for a bath.

[chrisgixer]

Oh, er, the engine mount brackets from the Holden gts the engine came out of are NOT central to the engine, so they may well have to be changed.

[Omegatoy]

lol great project!

 looks like my engine hoist is getting another workout then?you are luucky i had a full car on the last trip(came back here on 28th august0,cos i nearly collected it!

 Im absolutley positive standard 3.2 vented rear discs will be ok,as you said engine is defintely lighter and unless your on a track?uprated rear pads will be suffiecient as rears do so little anyway

,bigger pads and calipers on the standard front discs will give you a larger "swept volume" of braking,
 but i would go with Woodys suggestion of ML brakes to be honest,as you have them "in stock" makes sense,

front mounted rack would better but nothing wrong with a rear mounted one if it overcomes multiple agro,s by using it,
dont dismiss electric pumps for the power steering bud. many many race cars use these and they are cheaply available and so small you would not believe it!

as you are going auto,diff will be fine power wise but not sure on ratio?guessing twill be fine but stand to be corrected,
biggest tip i can give you is try to use a standard length prop! as its likely to be the only thing,that would keep the car off the road for any great lengh of time if damaged, also makes (usually) the whole business of engine box and positioning a bit easier,it may compromise your ideal position of engine position by an inch or so, but pays off in the long run