Project Tractor engine swap

[ffcgary1]

Yes james all understood, but it would have been better as it turns out, to have gone down that route as this i fear has only one poss outcome. but heres hoping that i am wrong. :-/

[JamesV6CDX]

Although I hope not, you may be right.

How about removing the head off the old lump, now it's out the car, and having a gander?

I'm also trying to think where the bloody heck the gearbox could be leaking from!!

[TheBoy]

I am beginning to think that the donor engine has issues.  Possibly a failed or faulty injection pump, or maybe something wrong with chain, its tensioner (if it has one) and guides - Sassanach and I both heard a rhythmic 'rubbing' noise intermittently, but where unable to pinpoint it, as we were busy trying to unblock the road  

Original reason for doing whole engine, is it looked easier, trouble sourcing new head (plenty of bottom ends, heads rarer - what does that say  :-?), lack of tools (needs a special locking kit that locks the crank and chain guides), and cost (by time I'd bought all the gaskets and bolts needed for head removal etc)


Plan B is to remove head on original engine.  There is evidence of the stuff put in cooling system by previous owner (the copper filing 'hg repair' stuff) on the injectors.

Now, over to the experts - the injectors sit in swirl/precombustion chambers, so if it was just a failed HG, could the copper filings have reached the injectors? Or does this definately prove head is fubar?  Additionally, if that is the case, can the head be repaired?  Or should I use the head from donor engine?

Problem with Plan B is if the engine is OK, and its an electronic problem (no codes on Tech2 - odd spurious one if it stalls itself), then that will be more expense for nothing  

[sassanach]

have now consulted the oracle..... pump is matched to original cars ecu requires attention from b%w to rematch. three options a, change pump so that your original pump is back on the engine or b, change head and reinstall original engine or c, bend over and take some from bmw

[sassanach]

the oracle has the special tools needed to change pump and i can borrow them

[Martin_1962]

 

[Markie]

I can see light at the end of the tunnel....

[Kevin Wood]

pump is matched to original cars ecu

Blimey! Take up the manufacuting tolerances in software   and don't make it self-learning! OK until someone changes one or t'other then it's foobar!

I reckon we're getting warmer, though. Either the pumps need to be swapped or the pump on the new engine has suffered from being left standing...

Kevin

[Marks DTM Calib]

Pump change looks pretty staright forward and the only major tool required looks to be mounting bracket for the dial gauge to get the static pump stroke set correctly. The othere specials are a couple of locking pins.

[IrmscherKris]

Just sell it to me! I love buying broken things  

Seriously though, have you tried giving it an Itallian tune up? with a splash of pump oil? the VP44 doesn't self lubricate like other pumps. Also you could try swapping the pump electrics too and see if this helps.

[TheBoy]

have now consulted the oracle..... pump is matched to original cars ecu requires attention from b%w to rematch. three options a, change pump so that your original pump is back on the engine or b, change head and reinstall original engine or c, bend over and take some from bmw

Read that on the BMW TIS, seems that only affected early ECUs (ie, a new pump needed the ECU to be upgraded) is my understanding....

Omegatoy has just popped round with further info - something that I did consider last night, hence swapping heads and engines....

Picture to follow...

[TheBoy]

Could this be same thing?

[TheBoy]

So, whats easier/cheaper - changing chains/spockets/guides or changing heads over and swapping engines back?

Or worth changing pump first? Bit loathed to do that, as I have a working block with pump all timed, just needs head fixed?

[IrmscherKris]

I think you might be better just having a look at the chain etc first before you swap anything else.
Did you hear it running before?

Maybe you would be better off pulling it out and fully rebuilding it?

Sorry, I know it's hard to take on board the worst case scenario but in reality in may be quicker to do and you should see 100k before you get an oil leak.  

[RonaldMcBurger]

Both nightmare jobs. Either way, you have to take timing chain off, so my bet is scrap it and call it a day.