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[TheBoy]

I think Allenm may need some assistance, whether a 'Head change party' or step by step instructions...

[Allenm]

I think Allenm may need some assistance, whether a 'Head change party' or step by step instructions...

That's an understatement!    I hope the head change party is still on the cards!

I guess I need to start looking for a car to keep me going in the meantime though!

[terry paget]

I also had a cambelt jump/slip four teeth on my V6 Omega last April. Sympton was car would start but rattled awfully. I stopped engine at once.

I stripped it down and found the cams were 4 teeth ahead of the crank. I took advice from Dr. Omega on the yahoo site and proceeded more or less as you plan, but allow me to elaborate anyhow.

With engine at TDC on no. 1 by bottom pulley mark, I removed the old cam belt. I rotated the crankshaft 60 degrees anticlockwise to locate all pistons out of harms way. I then rotated all camshafts a couple of turns each, using a socket on the sprocket nuts, checking that I felt resistance at all times  - I did. This told me that no valves were bent - good news.

I next set all cam sprockets with the alignment marks aligned with the notches in the rear cover. Then I rotated the crankshaft 60 degrees clockwise back to TDC.

I then put on the new pulleys and belt as described in Haynes and Total Vauxhall October 2005, using the special tools. I am sure that the site DVD tells you how to do this, mine has just arived but I have not run it yet. I tensioned the belt as instructed, with the aligment marks in line. I removed the special tools and rotated the engine two turns. I checked that the bottom pulley and cam sprockets all still lined up. They did.

I reassembled ancillaries and paused for a cup of coffee. I then connected the battery and started the engine. It ran sweet as a nut.

I had made one mistake. After a week or so the EMS light came on, and the fault was eventually traced to the knock sensor lead having been located on the wrong side of the auxilary belt tensioner and having been worn through by the aux belt. Took it apart again, resoldered the knock sensor lead, reassembled, and all was well.

It has run well ever since.

Good luck,

Terry

[Marks DTM Calib]

Terry, that is pretty much what has been done, although it is MUCH better to set the crank to 60 deg before TDC before removing the belt as the cams could spring over and cause damage.

So, passenger side bank has bent valves, we need to find some 2.5 heads and get them re-furbed ready for fitting....

[TheBoy]

I guess I need to start looking for a car to keep me going in the meantime though!

What you need is a nice 95 2.5 V6 CD model, in red....  

[Allenm]

Terry, that is pretty much what has been done, although it is MUCH better to set the crank to 60 deg before TDC before removing the belt as the cams could spring over and cause damage.

So, passenger side bank has bent valves, we need to find some 2.5 heads and get them re-furbed ready for fitting....

That sounds about right...  isunnaz, yours still available?

Merv

[Allenm]

I also had a cambelt jump/slip four teeth on my V6 Omega last April. Sympton was car would start but rattled awfully. I stopped engine at once.

I stripped it down and found the cams were 4 teeth ahead of the crank. I took advice from Dr. Omega on the yahoo site and proceeded more or less as you plan, but allow me to elaborate anyhow.

With engine at TDC on no. 1 by bottom pulley mark, I removed the old cam belt. I rotated the crankshaft 60 degrees anticlockwise to locate all pistons out of harms way. I then rotated all camshafts a couple of turns each, using a socket on the sprocket nuts, checking that I felt resistance at all times  - I did. This told me that no valves were bent - good news.

I next set all cam sprockets with the alignment marks aligned with the notches in the rear cover. Then I rotated the crankshaft 60 degrees clockwise back to TDC.

I then put on the new pulleys and belt as described in Haynes and Total Vauxhall October 2005, using the special tools. I am sure that the site DVD tells you how to do this, mine has just arived but I have not run it yet. I tensioned the belt as instructed, with the aligment marks in line. I removed the special tools and rotated the engine two turns. I checked that the bottom pulley and cam sprockets all still lined up. They did.

I reassembled ancillaries and paused for a cup of coffee. I then connected the battery and started the engine. It ran sweet as a nut.

I had made one mistake. After a week or so the EMS light came on, and the fault was eventually traced to the knock sensor lead having been located on the wrong side of the auxilary belt tensioner and having been worn through by the aux belt. Took it apart again, resoldered the knock sensor lead, reassembled, and all was well.

It has run well ever since.

Good luck,

Terry
 

Terry,

That is more or less what I have done, if you look back through the thread you can see the steps I have gone through.  The only difference with yours is that mine did not start sweet as a nut!!

I'm sure you won't be offended if I call you a lucky barsteward

Merv

[MartinP]

Terry, that is pretty much what has been done, although it is MUCH better to set the crank to 60 deg before TDC before removing the belt as the cams could spring over and cause damage.

So, passenger side bank has bent valves, we need to find some 2.5 heads and get them re-furbed ready for fitting....

That sounds about right...  isunnaz, yours still available?

Merv

yes, have took the cams out, but all the bits are available

They may benefit from a skim, as suggested by markDTM on a different thread

[cipher]

personally, once the head is off, it is worth giving a skim anyway, the head is allready off, and for the little that it costs, its better to have the peace of mind.

There used to be a precision engineering compnay in Derby that would skim a cyliner head for a £25 Backhander.

Unfortunateley, they are no more, as the guy that used to dfo has left the company (Elison Metal Products)

[Andy B]

....
There used to be a precision engineering compnay in Derby that would skim a cyliner head for a £25 Backhander.....

It wasn't much more to have my Senator's head done. Hardest bit was finding a company that had a m/c big enough for a straight 6 head.

[Allenm]

I guess we need to hatch a plan for the head change party..

Is everyone still OK to do this?
Are the heads Issunaz has OK/
Pete - still up for the prep work?

When might all this come together and a day be possible?

Tea and Bacon butties still on the cards!

Cheers
Merv

[TheBoy]

I am available to help, though would say this is beyond my skills...

[Marks DTM Calib]

First stage is to get the heads to Pete for a re-furb, I suspect this will take a few weeks.....

Then we need the required bits (we will need stem seals for the re-furb) and a day to remove and fit.

As prep on the car, Allen could strip down the cambelt again as this will save about an hour.

[Allenm]

Thanks Mark,  sounds like a plan...

Pete, issunaz,  how do we arrange getting the heads to Pete? (assuming you are both still willing)

Cheers all

Merv

[MartinP]

Thanks Mark,  sounds like a plan...

Pete, issunaz,  how do we arrange getting the heads to Pete? (assuming you are both still willing)

Cheers all

Merv

Where is Pete?