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Please play nicely.  No one wants to listen/read a keyboard warriors rants....

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Author Topic: Engine Loom  (Read 33283 times)

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Darth Loo-knee

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Re: Engine Loom
« Reply #195 on: 18 March 2015, 07:54:42 »

The inlets had kitchen roll down the to stop anything going into them when removing the thermostat.. The spark plugs were taken out individually which had no parts of electrode missing,  then replaxed with new ones individually. The timing was bang on even after start up and re checked it was still bang on. The cam cover on the 2,4,6 side I thought I saw something shiny... after checking wondered if the sun had shone on the oil in there... before you say James I use a magnetic bowl to put bolts etc into, also no tools were missing... on start up the car sounded like a lifter was shagged... I have heard loads and that is what it sounded like. I myself was questioning what it could be, yet checking everything I had done over and over couldn't see what....
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JamesV6CDX

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Re: Engine Loom
« Reply #196 on: 18 March 2015, 08:16:26 »

The inlets had kitchen roll down the to stop anything going into them when removing the thermostat.. The spark plugs were taken out individually which had no parts of electrode missing,  then replaxed with new ones individually. The timing was bang on even after start up and re checked it was still bang on. The cam cover on the 2,4,6 side I thought I saw something shiny... after checking wondered if the sun had shone on the oil in there... before you say James I use a magnetic bowl to put bolts etc into, also no tools were missing... on start up the car sounded like a lifter was shagged... I have heard loads and that is what it sounded like. I myself was questioning what it could be, yet checking everything I had done over and over couldn't see what....

This info is massively useful mate, cheers for this.
As I've said all along, not digging at anyone, or suggesting anything has been done wrong by you personally, so please don't think that at all, I've only been asking (which I accept might seem obvious questions) such as were holes covered, not to try and find fault with anyone's work, just so we can cross certain causes off the list and forget about them :y

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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: Engine Loom
« Reply #197 on: 18 March 2015, 08:19:22 »

And all the inferior 2.6 and 3.2 design..

Oh Al, pistons are not steel  :y
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JamesV6CDX

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Re: Engine Loom
« Reply #198 on: 18 March 2015, 08:26:21 »

Anyway less talking... Just loading up the car with tools, head, and dog, and heading up the motorway

I should be home by about 9pm with hopefully good news, watch this space :y :y
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JamesV6CDX

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Re: Engine Loom
« Reply #199 on: 18 March 2015, 08:54:41 »

FFS double puncture on the DTi >:(

Not going to mess with it now, will load up the other car instead. Will still be with you soon as I can :y
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05omegav6

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Re: Engine Loom
« Reply #200 on: 18 March 2015, 11:26:45 »

And all the inferior 2.6 and 3.2 design..

Oh Al, pistons are not steel  :y
Are they not... must be a harder cheese than the heads though from the pics :-\
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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: Engine Loom
« Reply #201 on: 18 March 2015, 11:36:33 »

If they were steel they would be much to heavy hence they are aluminium alloy.  :y

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EMD

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Re: Engine Loom
« Reply #202 on: 18 March 2015, 15:49:27 »

Quote
I vote on plug debris

Secondeded  :)
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chrisgixer

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Re: Engine Loom
« Reply #203 on: 18 March 2015, 18:29:49 »

Bah, get it fixed and back together. Nout else to be done really. :)
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Rods2

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Re: Engine Loom
« Reply #204 on: 19 March 2015, 00:31:17 »

Where the pistons don't look right in the bores have the rings broken up as they would cause this sort of damage to the pistons and cylinder heads. Would it be worth dropping the sump to see if there is any debris in there?

I had a Honda 250 K2 when I was 17, which revved to 10,500rpm. Where I used to thrash it to death, twice I broke the rings up on the left hand cylinder. There was never any bore damage but I did end up with a couple of marks in the head very reminiscent of what this cylinder head has! The signs were always lack of compression and a misfire on the left cylinder.

Just a thought before fitting a replacement head and still having the compression problem. Is it worth doing an oil test in the cylinders?
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Steve B

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Re: Engine Loom
« Reply #205 on: 19 March 2015, 01:18:00 »

Where the pistons don't look right in the bores have the rings broken up as they would cause this sort of damage to the pistons and cylinder heads. Would it be worth dropping the sump to see if there is any debris in there?

I had a Honda 250 K2 when I was 17, which revved to 10,500rpm. Where I used to thrash it to death, twice I broke the rings up on the left hand cylinder. There was never any bore damage but I did end up with a couple of marks in the head very reminiscent of what this cylinder head has! The signs were always lack of compression and a misfire on the left cylinder.

Just a thought before fitting a replacement head and still having the compression problem. Is it worth doing an oil test in the cylinders?
We felt Fairly sure there was no piston ring damage. So carried on from there..Its been a real long day. James will post up The results of the work done today, which Looks very positive  :y
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JamesV6CDX

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Re: Engine Loom
« Reply #206 on: 19 March 2015, 03:34:55 »

Yep I'm too old to be working by 12v lights at midnight these days ;D

Will post fully in the morning :y
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JamesV6CDX

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Re: Engine Loom
« Reply #207 on: 19 March 2015, 11:54:22 »

So yesterday we re fitted a proven cylinder head to the 2-4-6 bank, and re built the engine back up.

Pleased to say that compression on this bank is now fully restored - the readings being in the region of 190psi per cylinder :y  So even if the original head didn't look too bad valve wise - it was causing the drop :)

On this basis - we kept the original loom on there, as it looked as if the likely cause was now fixed.

Not long at all after startup, it was clearly idling rough, at the normal idle speed. The light began flashing . This led me to believe that perhaps the loom was indeed faulty!

Read the codes, and I had to do a double take - misfire codes for all the cylinders on the 1-3-5 BANK!!  ???

What confused me even more, is that I looked at the live data, and saw that the main Lambda on bank 2 (the bank no longer reporting a misfire) was reading only between 20-50mv. As this bank was no longer misfiring, I expected this one to be cycling normally.

I looked at the lambda for bank 1, and despite this bank being the one complaining, it's lambda was, according to live data, cycling normally, between 30-700mv at operating temperature.

I couldn't see how this could really be possible, if the bank was misfiring that badly, and thought it should be the other way round. For this reason we suspected maybe the lambdas were wired the wrong way around.

In order to rule out any closed loop problems, I unplugged all the lambdas to force it into open loop to see if it would run normally on a default map. It didn't - the problem was exactly the same.

I have been reluctant to believe it's the loom, up until this point, but at this point I began thinking - maybe there is something going wrong in the loom - and decided to change the loom for Robsey's 40k one.

So, new loom in place. Ignition on, clear of the codes, and a hopeful turn of the key.

No change. Misfire 1-3-5 bank, all cylinders.

I tried running the engine without the 1-3-5 coil pack, and it actually doesn't run much differently at all. Slightly rougher, + a bit of a popping noise, but it's not much different without the coil pack plugged in. So at idle it's running pretty much solely on the 2-4-6 bank!

When fitting the new loom, I plugged the lambdas in one by one, and checked "software" to ensure I'd plugged the correct ones in. So lambdas in the right place.

It was at this point, I began thinking to myself that I need once more to be looking at real basics. As my mindset has worked all along - don't believe in co-incidences, the 2-4-6 problem has now been fixed, but can't help thinking that we have obviously introduced SOMETHING to cause the new 1-3-5 issue.

As a test, I ran the engine at 2,000 rpm, holding foot steady on the throttle. The engine EASILY ran on all six at this point, without question. Sounded absolutely lovely revving and wasn't a problem in any way. As I did this, Steve reset the codes, and waited for any to come back. Despite waiting some time, holding it at 2,000 rpm, no fault codes came, and it didn't misfire. As soon as it was returned to idle - rough idle and pesky misfire, again.

I stood in front of the engine listening for any clues at this point. There is absolutely no valve train / lifter noise. I can clearly hear the 2-4-6 fuel injectors ticking away sweetly. However when listening on the 1-3-5 bank I wasn't so sure. (the injectors hadn't been shut down by the ECU at this point)

Whilst stood in front of the engine, we noticed a lot of metallic small noises, that I don't remember hearing on any other V6, coming quite obviously from the electronic DBW throttle control unit. Took this off for a look, I was thinking - is there a really silly fault, for example, has the air flap come loose from the spindle!! So took it off to check. very gunged up at the rear of the throttle bodies, where the butterflies sit (Steve will confirm!) And at the close position, it seemed to stick closed on this gunge. We gave it a clean, within an inch of it's life, and it was then no longer sticking shut. Refitted it and hoped we'd get lucky - NAAAH! Same as before. Misfire 1-3-5.

I tried the engine without the MAF - no joy - same issue.

As a test, I unplugged the DBW unit and ran the engine, to see if it would put it on a default map etc and see what that would do.

At this point, it coughed for a second when started, and the best thing I can describe is the sound of when an LPG car, which isn't running well on gas, is switched onto petrol, and then runs well, it was as if the cylinders on 1-3-5 just suddenly all stepped back into life, and the engine was idling absolutely A1 - albeit very slightly higher idle.

I'm no longer really sure what to make of this. Sadly I didn't have my kit to test the spark on the 1-3-5 plugs, but this coil pack was fine before, what are the chances of it suddenly failing! I don't think that's happened.

- valve timing is fine. Steve checked it after I setup the belt etc.

I did question myself, as you do, and think did I put one of the 1-3-5 cams on the wrong keyway, but this can't be the case, as all the valves would open and close at the same time and I wouldn't get any compression, no?? Also I don't think it'd idle OK at 2,000 rpm if I'd done that. In fact I know I haven't done that. I just can't stop questioning myself!!

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. We've spent about 20 hours and travelled 400 miles for this engine now, so it deserves to be fixed!!!

I had to down tools (at midnight) as I was tired to the point of not thinking straight anymore. I'm having today off, and will have a look at the car perhaps tomorrow, or early next week, with a clear head, hopefully armed with a few OOF ideas! :y

For now? I'm not going anywhere near a car. I'm off to walk my dog to the pub for lunch. Washed down with about three pints of doombar.  ::)
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05omegav6

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Re: Engine Loom
« Reply #208 on: 19 March 2015, 13:06:51 »

What work has been done to the 135 head? What state are the plugs in on that side?
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JamesV6CDX

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Re: Engine Loom
« Reply #209 on: 19 March 2015, 13:29:38 »

What work has been done to the 135 head? What state are the plugs in on that side?

None, left in situ bar camshaft removal to allow is to rotate the 246 pistons to the top of the bores for cleaning / inspection

Plugs looked fine didn't smell of fuel :y
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