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[TheBoy]

MOT'd 2 of the cars earlier....

[Nick W]

I am a big fan of the modern plastic fuel lines mainly as they are the only type I have never had some sort of issue with.

I usually use these guys:

https://www.ssldieselparts.co.uk/

I looked at plastic too - as you say it's basically indestructible, ethanol safe, easy to work with etc.. I just wasn't sure how to terminate it at either end as I was going from that to AN- fittings; easy with copper or aluminium as you just pop a tube nut on and flare the end (or use a compression fitting), but I couldn't figure it out with nylon and my google-fu wasn't helping me

I agree with Mark, I wouldn't use anything but nylon pipe. 6mm bore is readily available at your local hydraulics supplier, and I would expect to pay less than £1 a metre. You can join it with 8mm hose and clips, or buy barbed fittings that you insert after warming the end of the pipe with a heat gun. Either is good for fuel injection pressures, and that size is big enough to feed a decent small-block V8

[Elite_L0ver]

Fitted new maf sensor & cleared Fault codes but she still idles a bit jumpy (between 8/900 rpm) any ideas

[Andy H]

Fitted new maf sensor & cleared Fault codes but she still idles a bit jumpy (between 8/900 rpm) any ideas

Which engine? 4 cylinder or V6?

[Doctor Gollum]

Fitted new maf sensor & cleared Fault codes but she still idles a bit jumpy (between 8/900 rpm) any ideas

Which engine? 4 cylinder or V6?

2.2 petrol CD

[Elite_L0ver]

  What he said 2.2 Cd 

[Andy H]

Fitted new maf sensor & cleared Fault codes but she still idles a bit jumpy (between 8/900 rpm) any ideas

Which engine? 4 cylinder or V6?

2.2 petrol CD

Is 750 - 800 rpm normal for this engine?

[Elite_L0ver]

I thought that but it just seems a little rough I'm going to have too warm it up at weekend and see if it makes a difference as it's not mot'd yet can really go anywhere in it I'm itching too but cant

[aaronjb]

and that size is big enough to feed a decent small-block V8

What about a big block on injected ITBs?

[Doctor Gollum]

and that size is big enough to feed a decent small-block V8

What about a big block on injected ITBs?

Er... 1/2" and a sodding great pump?

[aaronjb]

  If it was on carbs then the fuel line would probably be the full 12mm (outlet size on the tank) as they're low pressure systems.. the ITBs run at the usual sorts of FI pressures so 8mm would be more than man enough

Probably 12mm through to a low pressure lift pump and up to a swirl pot, then 8mm from pot to engine.

Once I figure out where the heck all that stuff will fit, anyway

[Nick W]

and that size is big enough to feed a decent small-block V8

What about a big block on injected ITBs?

Can't say for certain as we didn't get the BB Cadillac running, but bigger would probably be advisable.


I have a pair of 50DCOE pattern throttle bodies if you're interested.


And why not forget the external pump, swirl pot etc and just run a submerged pump? Easier and you don't have to find room for everything.

[Kevin Wood]

And why not forget the external pump, swirl pot etc and just run a submerged pump? Easier and you don't have to find room for everything.

In the case of my Westfield I went that route because there was insufficient baffling in the fuel tank. Even their injection tank (mine started life on carbs) is not much better and fitting a surge pot was an easier option than taking out the tank and doing a proper job on it.

I guess it might be worth a try at making a better job of it at the stage of building the car. I suspect you'd need to tig a pot into the bottom of the tank and fit the pump and return line there to make a kit car fuel tank work well enough on injection for track use - especially at the rate that thing's going to haemorrhage fuel!

[aaronjb]

Like Kevin says Nick, the baffling is almost nonexistent - although I could get the tank cut open or a whole new one made with a decent internal pot for a submerged pump..

I guess it might be worth a try at making a better job of it at the stage of building the car. I suspect you'd need to tig a pot into the bottom of the tank and fit the pump and return line there to make a kit car fuel tank work well enough on injection for track use - especially at the rate that thing's going to haemorrhage fuel!

Ah I'm sure it won't be that bad, surely I'll get at least as good mpg as an Omega? No?

The tank hangs down pretty low - in fact I think the outlet is already as low as or possibly lower than the diff and a bit of a grounding risk as it hangs out behind the rear wheels (shouldn't make it arse heavy at all, I'm sure ) - so there's not much scope for hanging a pot on the bottom beyond the little lump the outlet is in.

I could get a new tank made up with a built in pot to take an in tank pump though, probably wouldn't cost more than I paid for the tank from Dax ironically, either  and it could be in something lighter than stainless..

[Kevin Wood]

Sounds like you've come to the same conclusion as me.. easier to fit a surge pot and lift pump.

With over a litre of fuel in it, it would take quite a serious bend at full throttle to give any fuel starvation.