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[TheBoy]

Rear camber isn't directly adjustable, though is impacted by the toe that side.  In my experience, having a rear camber out of spec is a non issue on an Omega, and its better to have the toe spot on, and the thrust angle 0'00.

There was no increase in tyre wear, an no noticeable difference in handling (and those who drove my beloved Silver Bullet will know it was one of the most sure footed, best handling Omegas out there, for reasons we could never work out)

[countrywoman]

Roy has shortened the Omega drive shafts to fit the Austin, said it killed 3 super duper lathe tools as case hardening was very tough.

[Doctor Gollum]

Ok, so...

Front caster is ok.
Front camber is ridiculous. -1°10" is where that should be
And whilst the front toe is ok, it doesn't excuse the camber and 0°03" toe in each side.

Rear, there's only one adjustment and that affects both toe and camber. The actual numbers are what they are as long as the thrust angle is 0°00".

A roughly set up Omega will drive ok, but it's night and day to a well set up one.

That camber and toe will chew tyres.

And for the nay sayers, when you destroy a set of tyres in less than a thousand miles, you soon pay attention.

[Jimbob]

Finally picked it back up from the garage

[polilara]

Thanks D.G. for your coments of my wheel set up.
1. To be honest I did not undertand your front Camber comments, what is ridiculous and are these -1°10' and 0°03'
recommendatios based on experience, please explain.
2. I understand that Thrust Angle should be zero. Is this 0°04'  which is actually  0.067° too big value so should that be corrected.
3. My aim is to replace wishbone bushing by poly front and original rear as recommended here. Does anyone have spare number for the rear one and any tip where to buy poly ones.

[TheBoy]

That thrust angle needs to be much, much better. 0'00, however you manage to achieve that

The OOF recommended front camber figure comes from experience and some significant experimentation on one of mine by Tony Bones (RIP) of Wheels-in-Motion to find settings that work well on an ageing Omega, both for fast road use and reducing tyre wear.

[Doctor Gollum]

That thrust angle needs to be much, much better. 0'00, however you manage to achieve that

The OOF recommended front camber figure comes from experience and some significant experimentation on one of mine by Tony Bones (RIP) of Wheels-in-Motion to find settings that work well on an ageing Omega, both for fast road use and reducing tyre wear.

This

The first number is the front camber and the second is the front toe in.

As a basic rule of thumb, front wheel drive cars toe out and rear wheel drive toe in.

[polilara]

Ok, thanks, after having done the bushing operation I proceed as advised. Still tips for Poly and original spare number are welcome.

[Doctor Gollum]

Power flex for the front wishbone bushes.

They've gone up a bit over the years, but are about £100 if you do the anti roll bar bushes as well.

The rear subframe donut bushes can be poly bushed as well. Pedders do them for the *Monaro/Pontiac GTO. You need the bush and the spacer disc.

* For the naysayers, the rear subframe donut bush is one of three parts that the Omega and Monaro/Commodore HV share.

For the front wishbone rear bush, genuine GM would be first choice, but... Be mindful that not all aftermarket wishbones are equal. So it may be prudent to buy the same brand bushes as the wishbones... ie ATEC/Febi/Delphi etc, as the bush diameter varies a smidge between suppliers. Some people have reported poor/loose rear bush fitment.

Also, whilst you're in there, if you're refurbishing the arms, replace the ball joints.

https://www.atp-autoteile.de/de/product/65488-bestprice-querlenker-komplett-set-lenkungssatz-va

Plus

https://powerflexstore.co.uk/vauxhall/omega-b-1994-2003/

Plus

https://pedders.co.uk EP1145 plus EP1168*

It looks like they've modified the design of the EP1145s. The earlier version requires EP1168 to pack it in place . I have only fitted the original version of EP1145 so can't comment on whether EP1168 is still.required.

[YZ250]

…………
The rear subframe donut bushes can be poly bushed as well. Pedders do them for the *Monaro/Pontiac GTO. You need the bush and the spacer disc.

* For the naysayers, the rear subframe donut bush is one of three parts that the Omega and Monaro/Commodore HV share.
…….
https://pedders.co.uk EP1145 plus EP1168*

It looks like they've modified the design of the EP1145s. The earlier version requires EP1168 to pack it in place . I have only fitted the original version of EP1145 so can't comment on whether EP1168 is still.required.

Just reminded me that I still have my unopened, still in the bag EP1145’s from the group buy. I keep meaning to stick them on here but keep forgetting. I’d have forgotten again by the end of the day.

[TheBoy]

If using genuine GM wishbones, and the balljoint seal is undamaged and no detectable ball in the balljoint, I would not replace them. As a rule, they don't fail.

[Doctor Gollum]

If using genuine GM wishbones, and the balljoint seal is undamaged and no detectable ball in the balljoint, I would not replace them. As a rule, they don't fail.

Actually, they do

And even the GM replacements bolt in.

[TheBoy]

If using genuine GM wishbones, and the balljoint seal is undamaged and no detectable ball in the balljoint, I would not replace them. As a rule, they don't fail.

Actually, they do

And even the GM replacements bolt in.

I've had 1 genuine GM wishbone balljoint develop play, due to the dust seal getting damaged I suspect.  That's across the 5 I owned, all of them relatively high milers, all of which had genuine GM wishbones fitted.

The set I did had to change the balljoints out on lasted my ownership.

Note, I refused point blank to use the shit ATP pedal on any of my cars based on seeing them on other Omegas, so I'm only commenting on genuine GM wishbones and the replaced (Lemforder I think) balljoints.

So I have to maintain that I would only ever change the balljoint if it had noticeable play or if it had a damaged seal.  If it has neither of these, stick with the originals.

[Doctor Gollum]

The ATP stuff is cheap enough to be a service item.

And most Omegas will have had the wishbones changed by 120k miles.

If they've been replaced with genuine ones then the person who changed them had more money than sense as they were about £270 each. And on a car that's likely to only have a couple of years in it, why waste the money

[countrywoman]

Booked the Austin in to a very local car show thats in the middle of April, not sure if it will be driving for the and it defo wont be finished.